• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About FarmalDaze

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    WC IA
  1. Got a chance to look into the situation. After reading another post on the same issue, I figured my problem really wasn't in the detent adjustment, so I removed the plastic top of the console. The arm on the number three valve that is welded to the cross shaft that the actual remote lever slides onto was wore to a slot almost twice the size of the original hole, and the short stem that fits through that hole is almost cut off. I welded the hole back shut and drilled a new hole, but the little threaded piece that screws on the rod and fits through the hole will need to be replaced. The other two I just needed to loosen the jamb nut and turn the rod until the levers lined back up with the lockout rod that slides through the handles. Now they will lock into all three positions. Not too bad a job, but might have been a little upsetting if my cab foam was in better shape as there were a couple of screws that were buried under the trim foam. Darren
  2. Thanks, That was where I was figuring the adjustment was, but wanted to check before I did something I regretted. Just curious, why do I not use the motor run valve to run the motor, does it pretty much kill the function of the other two, or is there another reason? Darren
  3. I am working on getting my 5488 ready to use on a planter. My number one and two hydraulic remotes do not stay in the float position which is a particular problem since the number one remote will need to run a fan motor. Where is the adjustment to fix this problem? Thanks in advance. Darren
  4. After 9500 hours a spring broke internally and tore up the inside, suppose dirty fuel could have created conditions necessary to cause the spring to break too. The guy who did the work also commented that some one was working on adapting a roamaster pump to that engine. Hopefully this one will make another 5000 hours or so and I won't have to worry about it.
  5. After some looking around and not really finding anything I wanted to replace my 826 with, I went ahead and had the injector pump rebuilt. The old one was completely trashed, the tech couldn't believe the tractor could even run, but in order to rebuild it he took a couple of old pumps apart to get enough parts to fix mine since new parts are no longer available. Is this true, and does this spell the end for this engine down the road? Just curious is all. Thanks for any replies.
  6. My dad had a 21' 4200 with the five bar spike tooth harrow. We maybe pulled it around 6mph. It seemed like if you ran the disk gangs deep enough to cut the bean stubble it woud ridge pretty bad. If you picked the gangs up so as not to ridge, then the stubble plugged up in the harrow. I am still trying to level some of the ridges that tool left back out. It works really good to fill in dead furrows. I took the advice left on one of these forums and bought a newer field cultivator and haven't had any trouble getting the residue through, so I sold the 4200. Don't really want another one.
  7. Thanks for the input, the pump is going to need more than one seal to fix it as it is leaking fuel externally as well, i think around the shutoff. I kind of figured the injectors should probably be done at the same time the injector pump is done. Its still a straight solid old tractor, just reached the end of the road for this go around. The biggest problem is I don't use it under a load very often or at WOT so it gets pretty gunked up from wet stacking. Will this lead to problems or more just an annoyance? Was looking at a 885 case ih, but it sold, from other posts I gather the diesel engine in that tractor is a smaller version nuess. Does it have the same issues with wet stacking? Is there a heavy duty clutch option for the 826, that is one part that gets a lot of use, the last one didn't last very long. Thanks again, Darren
  8. I'm new to posting, but not to reading, but now I need the voice of some experience. Pulled the dipstick the other morning on my 826 and it was at the add mark, but didn't plan on running it that long so I just did what I needed to and shut it off. Came back later that afternoon and pulled the dipstick to add oil, and the level was at least an inch above the full mark and the oil was quickly dripping off. I am pretty sure it is fuel as I started it the other day and the oil is still coal black, but with the outside temp at 10 deg. F still wants to freely run off the dipstick. unscrewed the drain and didn't see any water either. It has about 9500 hours, my Dad put close to 5000 of those on w/o a wrench on the motor. It uses quite a bit of oil, is notorious for wet stacking which has been getting worse, but still no trouble starting if you know how to use the advance. The clutch is at the end of its adjustment, and won't completely release in the high side of the torque. I know this engine is a good one, but I am not sure it is worth putting the kind of coin into to get it back up and running. My Dad thinks I should just rebuild the injector pump, and replace the clutch and see how far it goes. I'm thnking, see if someone would be interested in for a restore project, take all the money and find something different. What I really need it for is running an auger in the fall, although I do grind feed and use it on haying equipment, but I have other options for that work. If I do overhaul it how much does something like that cost, and is it going to require someone with some exerience with that motor? From other posts it looks like the motor will have to be pulled so new bearings can be machined to fit. Any advice or insight would be apreciated. Right now I parked it in the back of the shed so I won't have to move it anymore. Thanks in advance.