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About patmax61

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    BTW, I air tested the suction line between the filter housing and the mcv valve pump intake port and it seemed fine. Plugged the filter housing port with a rubber cork, Mcgivered an adapter on the pump port, then juiced the line with a rubber tipped air gun. No signs or sounds of an air leak, and a big back flow whoosh when I pulled back the rubber tip.

    Thanks everyone. I'm getting a US made pump from Bates Corp

    Seen a lot of websites selling HyCapacity pumps. Any good?

    So where do I buy a new pump that I can trust? Bought this one from my IH dealership.

    So I've done all the fixes for my 856 mcv pump except change the o ring on the rear split. I've put in a rebuilt MC valve, new pump, new seals on the rear suction tube and main frame pump, made sure to have clean oil, new filter and gasket and double checked filter gasket to keep air out, but the pump still cavitates on start-up. It used to happen only in cold weather but it's gotten worse. Now it might not start on a 60 degree day. I just bleed the little 5/8 wrench o ring plug on the side of the mcv and everything works perfectly after that. I'm skeptical that the o ring on the rear split for the pump suction line could go bad sandwiched in there like that. Has anyone actually seen one of these gone bad? Also, has anyone tried air testing this line? I'm thinking of having a helper brace a rubber cork in the filter housing suction port while I apply a few pounds of air to the pump oil supply port under the mcv. If the o ring leaks from suction even a small amount of air pressure should leak from the o ring and we should hear a hiss from the top of the rear split, right? Any thoughts out there?
  6. Battery life

    Batteries go bad mostly from small particles falling off the plates inside, falling down to the bottom of the case and building up until they touch the plates and short out the cell. Better batteries have deeper cases and better plate separators to help stall that off longer. Because tractors have no suspension they bounce the batteries like crazy and make more particles fall down faster. Cars have a smoother ride and the battery lasts longer.
  7. 856 hydraulic pump

    I tried overfilling the transmission and got no satisfaction, so I don't think that o ring is the culprit. No, you put your finger on it exactly. I want to replace any seals on the suction side of the little pump. I thought I remembered guys saying you should pull the IPTO to make it easier to get in there and change the seal and o ring on that suction tube and that you needed to possibly pull the big pump to properly seat the seal on that end etc. That's what I'm looking for, some tips on how to replace those suction tube sealing elements.
  8. 856 hydraulic pump

    Been there, done that early on. Like I said, I'm already confident about the diagnosis, just wanted some tips about the exact seals and parts involved.
  9. 856 hydraulic pump

    I know this has been posted before but I'm having trouble finding it. The pump on the multiple control valve loses prime on startup a lot of the time. I've been through all of the easy fixes and I know now that it has to do with replacing the seals on the suction side of this system going back through the filter and into the transmission. Could someone please post the procedure for this and what seals are involved? Thanks
  10. auxiliary valves for 856

    I've heard of the power beyond plate, but never seen one. I'm not sure what they were used for originally, but I think you've got a good solution to provide an oil supply to a remote valve. I'm going to research this a little more. Thanks for the idea!
  11. auxiliary valves for 856

    Oh, well I have fixed the actuators as well. I thought you might have done some spool work. That's exactly what Abilene Machine claimed to do. They reworked the bores and spools and no, it wasn't cheap. But they were the only act in town; IH has nothing to offer when it comes to these valves.
  12. auxiliary valves for 856

    Yeah, those spools are a custom fit, not something you can rebuild in a little farm garage. I hadn't thought about the cylinder itself leaking back, I'll have to check that out. I see Abilene no longer has the rebuilt valves on their website. I'm thinking the easiest way to do the plumbing is to make a custom block to replace the valve that would provide both the pressure oil supply and the return oil passage. Also, what do you mean you repaired these valves? What's your background? Did you mean you actually reworked the bores and spools or are you talking about repairing other parts of the valve?
  13. auxiliary valves for 856

    The single auxiliary valve on my 856 was whipped so I got a rebuilt from Abilene Machine 2 years ago. Big mistake. If my old valve was a 2 out of 10 then the rebuilt was maybe a 4; just a slight improvement. The pump pressure tests good. I know it's the recon valve because it won't hold pressure well; your implement starts dropping as soon as you let go of the lever. A haybine will be back on the ground in less then 10 minutes after you raise it. It would be far cheaper to buy a new Prince dual valve to replace this junk, but I need to find a good hot connection and return for the hydraulic supply for the unit. I have some ideas but I'd like to hear from someone who might have done this conversion already to save me from the pitfalls that this fix might entail. How about it? Anyone done this and had a good result or is it too cumbersome to do? Pat
  14. 856 hydraulic pump

    Thanks pete. None of the seals of these tubes has ever been touched, and I'm a little hesitant to think that since they've spent their lives in oil that they could have gone bad in a static environment. Of course there's always vibration and expansion and contraction to deal with I suppose. One observation that might support an air leak is the appearance of the oil. Whenever you crack the system, at first glance you might suspect that the oil is carrying a lot of moisture by the milky look of the oil. While checking things out one day I left the oil from the filter housing sitting in a pail for a few hours and noticed later that the oil was clear and amber after sitting all that time. When I poured it off no water was visible as having settled out of solution either. I then concluded that it was air foaming the oil that gave it that appearance, not moisture, but I wasn't sure if the pump was drawing air from a leak or had just frothed the oil because it cavitated from some other reason. Replacing the seals on the tubes doesn't sound much worse than pulling the MCV again and I'd only be out the price of a bunch of gaskets and seals. Just gotta convince myself to take it on in this crappy weather with one storm after another hitting us here in the foothills of the Adirondacks in NY. Right now I've got the filter pulled to give the pump an easier time of it--it usually primes itself with no filter--but I know better than to do that if I can help it. At least I've got a possible lead on a possible fix, and for guys like us it's not the breakdown that makes us crazy, it's not knowing what caused the breakdown. Nothing feels better than finding a smoking gun, I tell ya what(as old Hank Hill would say)! If I tackle it in the next few weeks I'll let you know what I find.
  15. 856 hydraulic pump

    Rear pump has never been pulled on this tractor. Question: I've often heard about the seals in the suction tubes leaking air in these cases, but without studying the schematics I was wondering why only the MCV pump would be affected by sucking air. Doesn't the rear pump also have to pull oil through the filter housing and if it does, why doesn't that pump suck the same air and cavitate?