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About texgyrene

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  1. I recently acquired a Farmall 706 with the C-263 engine for parts. The engine number is 57558 and has MM stamped after this number. I have searched the net for the meaning of the MM and have come up empty. Hopefully, someone with more knowledge than myself can come up with the answer. Thanks! texgyrene
  2. dumbfarmer- Thanks for the info. Really appreciate it. I have a chance to buy a tractor so equipped. Again, thank you!
  3. jass1660- Thanks for the info! I came across a pretty good buy on the gasser. Again, thanks! texgyrene
  4. Will a 706 D282 with an adjustable front end fit under a 706 263 gasser with a tricycle front? Are the holes in the frame rails of the 706 gasser there for the swap?
  5. taylor1566- I believe I am done with my D282. Another guy came to check it out. Bad news for home team. Onward to the 5.9. Checking on frame rails off an 806. cwinn put me on to a piece out solution which I can do. Great Idea if I can't find any factory rails. The guy that checked the 282D the other day came in at the money you are talking about, but offered a 30 day warranty. I didn't bite. I kinda like the reliability and easy starting of the 5.9, and since the adapter and all components to swap are available, I'm thinking with all the the implements I have for the 706, I just can't turn it loose considering what I have in it. As far as sheet metal is concerned, I just might be the only guy in this county with a custom ram air hood on a tractor. Time will tell the tale. Thanks for your input on this project of mine! texgyrene
  6. cwinn- I cannot adequately thank all the people on this site for the advice and insight I have been given to get this transplant going. I deeply appreciate it. Big Red will have a new life thanks to guys like you who are blazing the trail for dummies like me. Again, thank you and I will be on this site again when I run into a roadblock I can't figure out. As I have always said, I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree, but, I can always find people brighter than me. Thanks again for the knowledge and encouragement to see this project through. texgyrene
  7. bitty- Thanks for your reply as to frame rail length. It increases the knowledge I need to get this transplant going. Funny thing where I live is that guys I know that run the German diesel are holding on to them for dear life and if they decide to part with them they want a fortune or your first born son as an indentured servant. Again, thanks for the info! texgyrene
  8. cwinn- Thanks for the idea on piecing out the frame rails! Good thing people like you are on this site. That idea leans me back to a 5.9., instead of the 3.9. Cummins. I measured the frame rails on an 806D and they came in at 49.5 inches that I looked at the other day. My 706D is 46.5 inches. The 3 inches I lack will be a snap to do. I'm certainly thankful you put me on to this fix. Thanks again. texgyrene
  9. cwinn- Good to hear from you again! Did the 5.9 you installed go into a 706D with the 282? I was told that if I wanted a 5.9 I would have to get frame rails off an 806D for the length to fit the 5.9 as the 706D rails are too short. Is that the case? Let me know. Your ideas on sourcing ancillary parts for the build are money savers. Thanks! I am looking forward to hearing from you again
  10. CIHTECH- I sure I am glad you are on this site! Thanks for all the knowledge! The only thing the PTO would be working is a mist sprayer for pecan trees, 8 ft. shredder, or a post pole digger. My bro-in-law does my baling. Would the 4B hold up for those functions? I can check again about the fit of a 4BT with my front end loader as I have been told that it would interfere with the rear arms movement of the Allied 595 model loader if a side mount turbo is used. I have also been advised that the height of a top mount turbo would interfere with the hood sheet metal of the 706D. The engine that is in the 706 is a 282 D that I am tired of screwing with. It has a great future as a boat anchor. Again, thank you for all the info you passed on to me. Please don't get annoyed if I lean on you for more guidance in the transplant I am attempting. I live in the weeds of central Texas and most of the tractor mechanics have never heard of anything like this transplant, hence all the knowledge I find comes from the internet. Again. thank you
  11. cwinn- Thank you for the tip! I checked the 806 with the 361 I mentioned in a previous post. Too much was wrong with it. Blowby was bad. Hydraulic pump was weak. Weathered terribly. Never seen the inside of a barn. I cannot find any knowledgeable source where I live that can tell me if I should use an engine that is industrial, on road, or off road. I want a 4B that is naturally aspirated. I can't use a turbo due my front end loader being in the way.And, I am avoiding the turbo due to the ECM and it's wiring, and sensors, plus the gauges to monitor it. I'll use water temp,and oil pressure, and amp gauge to gauge performance. Do you have any recommendations as to industrial, off road, or on road? I really appreciate your help and knowledge in helping me out on this project . Thank you again! texgyrene
  12. bitty- Thanks for your reply! I still have not found a 4B yet. One of my bro-in-laws came up with a Farmall 806 on a Craigslist about 70 miles from me. He stopped to check it out while looking at some heifers. It's in fair shape he said. The guy wants 4 grand for it. The man claims it is a '67 model with a 361D in it. I'll see it later this week. I need to research and look this engine up as to feasibility for a transplant, as I don't know much about the 361D. Everything is in good shape as the owner states. Do you know of any pitfalls with this engine? I'm kind of torn between the 4B and an IH motor if it will not cause many pains to shoehorn it in. Any advice you or anyone can give would be greatly appreciated. I bet that 454 in your M would make that tractor stand up and bark. I go to pulls and am amazed at what some of those suckers can do!
  13. cwinn- Sorry for being late with a reply. Thanks for the info on the swap. I could not locate a 4B to measure the width of the block at the front mount holes. I was told that a 4B was the same width at that point as a 6B. I got a measurement of 13.5 inches on my bro-in-law's Dodge truck with a 6B. Hopefully, I hope I can trust the info about the engines being similar in respect to block width is correct. Also, I had a guy tell me that I needed a 4B that is governed. He said I needed an industrial type 4B and not an on road type. Could you offer any advice that would guide me to the 4B that I need? As I have always said, I know just enough to be dangerous to any project I undertake. Thanks again for all your info on my quest to repower that 706D. txgyrene
  14. cwinn- Thanks for your tip! What concerns me most is the width of the 4B block fitting between my frame rails. I've gotten info off the net and find various widths on the engine . I'm not sure due to the variation of the measurements I have found. I worry whether the measurements are taken at the front mount holes or if they were taken of the engine at it's widest point further up the block. I'm not concerned with the fit at the rear. There is a company in Wisconsin and one in Pennsylvania that sells a rear plate and flywheel that will adapt that end of the swap. The kit also contains front mounts. If you can find any definitive info as to the width of the block from front mount hole to front mount hole I would certainly appreciate it. Again, thank you for the info on the swap!