seant

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About seant

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  1. Thanks for the response, what is it that is attached to the pto unit that I remove the whole unit for? Is it possible to pull the top link plate of and access the draft control link through there? Thanks again!
  2. Hey guys sprung a leak on my 806 where the 3 point arm attaches to the rear housing. Im fairly certain it would be the draft control bar leaking and have a couple questions before i tear into it. It's leaking on the left side as you sit on the tractor, fairly good drip every 2 to 3 seconds, noticed it after I've been using it with a small Cat I ditcher and a 5 row creaser in relatively soft disced and planed soil. I have heard of the torsion bar in there breaking, is this fairly obvious to detect or do you need to remove the whole unit to identify? It appears you can repair the left side o ring without complete removal, is it worth doing both or just fix one side as it leaks, am I going to ruin the new left side seal if I have to do the right side in 6 months? Also, do you need to replace the bushing in there or are you pretty safe re using the old ones? How hard is the pto unit removal if I do decide to do both? Thanks for the help as always, Sean
  3. Thanks guys for all the responses!!! Is there any trouble putting in a new set of bearings without having anything ground down, keeping in mind it just a feel good until I can have gone through much more thorough?
  4. Hello all, still pretty new to the forums but I'm looking for some insight on a 806. Last fall i picked up an earlier model 806 diesel, ill get the serial number since i know some of you are keeping track, that had been sitting beside the neighbors barn for 5 to 7 years not being used. Not sure on the history before, but for the last 15 years or so it saw primarily haying use, not much hard labor. I paid 3k for it, a disk, and some various other implements. A few questions for you all... #1 Prolly the easiest, it has a small headgasket seep on the back passenger side, seeps worse when cold, when warm it tends to almost if not completely dry up. Should I pull off the head to do a gasket or should I first try just backing off the head bolts a turn or so and re tourqing in the specified sequence? Any trouble caused by trying that approach? #2 It seems like there is noise somewhere between a tick and a light knock that seems to be coming from the upper middle part of the block towards the rear but i can't seem to pinpoint. I have tried to track it down but It's not terribly loud. The more you listen the more your mind plays tricks on you and it either disappears or moves around. If I had to pick I would say that it's more noticeable when cold, but sometimes you hear it sometimes you don't. I know diesel motors are just inherently noisy. I may be crazy and just hearing things, even my cummins scares me every now and then, when I listen hard enough I sometimes think I hear a knock. It almost sounds like a valve lash tick sometimes and i plan on running the overhead on it when i can, but any ideas or common problems? Doesn't seem to miss and I traced injector lines to make sure they arnt touching anything the best I could without pulling to much tin. #3 I know these motors have a reputation for bottom end bearings. This thing is far from new and I'm sure the motor is at least a little bit tired, it has what I would call a little blow by, meaning the vent tube has a small/medium amount of air and little bit of smoke coming out while running. Eventually I plan to do a very thorough complete overhuall, but would there be any issue or would it be worth pulling the pan to get eyes on the bottom end, and while I'm in there do rod and main bearings for prevention sake? What about rings? I know it's only prolonging the inevitable but it will only see maybe 200 hours of use a summer if that (approximately 20 -30 acres of hay, 3 cuts a year) giving me time to save for the real deal. So the small cost to get by for a while and preventing damage I think may be worth it. It doesn't really burn much if any oil, however exhuast isn't 100 percent clear.. a tad bit hazy, but i figure just from sitting and age alone the rings have prolly lost some form and it may freshen the motor up a bit for the time being. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance
  5. Michael thank you also for the info!
  6. Thanks for the info! It's sounds like you have a great and admirable history with these machines!! I posted a thread about a week ago about a 450 diesel I have now bought. I purchased it with a full suspension of a possible cracked head, but do to the little bit of history i had as a boy with tractor and the fact that for a few thousands dollars, (tractor was 1k with almost new tires still in great shape and I'm figuring 1-1.5k in the head repair) I would be into a very capable medium sized diesel tractor I went ahead and did the deal. I have minimal signs of a cracked head and the owner said it was very important to cool down/warm up the engine but I do feel there may be a small amount of combustion gasses in the radiator. Only a few very small bubbles are present, but when filled to the over flow tube it will drip out coolant that eventually becomes more and more presurised until the level has dropped about an inch. I of course plan to check the head this winter, but am hoping I can get by through my last cut of hay for the year. No coolant in oil yet and no steam.....yet. Would you recommend a reman head or used one un cracked? Which one in your experience do you think would hold up to future cracks better? Also I have not looked in the manual yet but is timing the pump very difficult? I have experience timing cummins engines but never one of these. Thanks in advance!
  7. Red good to hear on the head deal, that seems like a steal!! I had talked to Midwest Cylinder Head And Machine they said they furnace weld those hesds and have experience. He said the average cost on them is 1100 us dollars with new valve guides and ground seats. Not terrible compared to what I was expecting. He also said the cast is very poor quality on those heads so its a tough job. For curiosity I have to ask how you figured out you had a cracked head?
  8. Red did you ever get your heads fixed?
  9. Thanks for the responses! Ended up getting the 450 fired up pretty easily. The engine was still free after all that time, even the filters looked good although I changed them anyways. Carb was a big finiky but once tore apart and cleaned well she fired right up. As far as the head goes it still makes me nervous, no big bubbles or blowing in the rad but possibly maybe a few real tiny bubbles occasionally, but the water flow is somewhat turbulent so it's really hard to tell. No steam in exhuast or coolant in oil.....hmmm. This tractor will be a working tractor so depending on the cost ot would be something I considered doing. Good diesel tractors in these parts in that power class are easily 4-5k for some rough ones. I tried to attach pictures but it says it over the size limits.
  10. Thanks I have heard alot about the cracked heads. Owner says he never had a problem with oil in coolant or visa versa. If the motor isn't stuck is it worth pulling the head to check? Any idea what folks have paid in the past to have a head stitched and milled? Also I have heard of many folks running kero in their oil after a motor has sat for so long. Is this a must or does simply a lightweight 5 30 oil work if changed shortly after being fired back up? The motor has been stored with antifreeze. Thanks for the replies, learning lots keep'em coming!
  11. Hello some quick questions from those out there with some more wisdom then myself. I am in the process of possibly purchasing an old farmall 450 diesel. A short story long, as a young boy riding the bus to school I passed this farmall 450 sitting by a neighboring farms barn everyday and dreamed of someday owning my own. It was certainly the highlight of the ride to school. That was just under 25 years ago. Just the other day I finaly decided to stop in and try to find out the story of the old 450 and if it would be for sale. Surprisingly the owner was more than happy to tell it's tale and said he would part with it for 1k, due to the fact of when he parked it he had just put thst or more than that in fresh tires on. He said it used oil when it was parked and is probably due for a rebuild but still ran strong, the TA worked and that he parked it due to coming across a few good deals on newer larger (green) tractors. He said that he would be more then happy to help get it fired back up again prior to hualing away. A few questions for you all.. What would be considered a fair price? What all must I check before trying to fire her back up? Lastly looking for overhual parts they are far and few between, any experience here in the best sources for parts vs price? Anything in particular to look for on these tractors when buying? ThanksThanks in advance! Sean