• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About larbear

  • Rank
  1. Thanks for the advice, all good, and gives me direction. I will be at it later but I better get to making a few dollars today, thanks again.
  2. I wonder that if that valve is sticking or needing some attention, could it be that the tractor side of the hook up is holding pressure that isn't being released and is why the hose end will not go in all the way. I'm sure that if I hook these hoses up to my fordson major, that the hook up would be no problem. I like this 706, but it is a bit worn and is somewhat complicated. I wanted it for the 1000 rpm pto and the Gehl baler I have use of. I rebuilt the pto and still have some shifting issues, but a 706 310 diesel with a year round cab is a rather nice unit provided I don't turn it into a bucket of bolts. Thank you for the responses.
  3. Yea, I would think that the ram on the haybine would want to go down. They are the original pioneer ends that have always been on, I switched the outlets on the tractor to pioneer as well.As I said I had this issue with hooking up to a set of disks last fall, though eventually I was able to make the hookup. The 706 would not raise the disks though, a set of 18 ft IH disks. Weak hitch pump? Though the three point hitch will easily and readily raise a 5x5 round hay bale. There is a valve under the seat relevant to the remotes, I believe. Could that be part of the issue? Thanks.
  4. I want to hook up my 310, 706 diesel to the haybine. I can't get one of the hoses from the haybine to go all the way into the remote. I've worked the remote lever in the tractor back and forth and have switched the hoses, one will go in properly and the hose that would allow the haybine to lower won't go in all the way. I had a bit of this difficulty last fall in hooking up to disks, though eventually I was able to make the connection. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
  5. Thanks for the input. Not being the brightest penny in the jar, I figure the reverse fork shaft gets support from two points, the sidewall of the transmission housing and from the range cover as well, so I lubed them with a bit of grease. Everything else seems not too bad, though a more practiced eye might see otherwise. The reason I went back into the range was that in my minds eye I thought there may be something not right with the hi-low fork, as I had a half inch bolt head sheared off in the sump, but that seems to be as it should. In reading from past threads and having set the clutch to spec and it still not shifting any better especially when wanting to get out of reverse, I wonder is the transmission brake set too tight? I have just replaced it, not precisely cheap, and what I would think could be the original with still a fair bit of pad to it. Is it holding the gears too tight and not allowing them to shift? Or does the trans brake not affect the range transmission? I am able to shift reasonably and regularly with the engine off so the difficulty when it is running makes a novice like me think that there is something hydraulic that is holding pressure somewhere. I figure that the MCV is weak as the tractor will hesitate when I turn the wheels sharp at low idle. A higher idle and it doesn't seem to be a problem. The TA seems to work either way though I haven't used it much in low.
  6. We are all addicted. There is a real opiod addiction going on I hear, sounds like it is a raging fire of sorts. You probably aren't all that unhealthy.
  7. I've been into the range transmission wondering if I can't improve the shifting of this tractor, most notably getting out of reverse with some degree of regularity , ease and comfort. How much play is there normally in the reverse fork shaft? Seems like a fair bit on this one and I can feel where this might be the binding I seem to experience when wanting to shift out of reverse. Would a new shaft do the trick or is the play apt to be in the casting holding the fork? Any advice is appreciated, thanks.
  8. Thank you, but ya I do need lots of instruction, I've put things back together. It really isn't shifting that much differently than it was before considering that the cams were moving essentially by design not that they were being held by much. The cams and reverse gear fork are all in good place and wanting to move well and properly, I'm thinking that the hi-lo fork is not quite right. The head of the bolt I wasn't accounting for is from there. I could move the rail or shaft the fork travels on back and forth probably more than an inch. I am rather sure that I moved the fork on the rail as well which a benevolent soul will tell me is right and more properly I think wrong. I will go back in, much less intimidating this time and service the fork and shaft. The write up that you speak of is very good and has been an important reference for me. My pto is working and set to pressure, that much is cool, as well I will say that with all I have to do I really enjoy working on this tractor, cab and all. Thank you for your response and good luck with your work.
  9. Thanks for all the info. The bolt head I found is a half inch, but the high- low fork isn't an upgraded type with snap rings and seems quite intact as far as the bolt that is in it. I have the cover back on and put the oil back into it so am ready to have a start up in the morning. I will check the transmission brake as it has been replaced and hopefully good to go. It will be nice to have a pto that I can use and be able to get out of reverse without taking ten minutes. Thank you everyone foe your input and advice.
  10. I've wondered about the reverse fork but I don't know how it comes out.
  11. That is what I was thinking, maybe not the first time the cover has been off. I guess what I wonder about is the head of the sheared bolt. It was stuck to the side cover plate when I took it off along with a piece of the broken pin. There are some steel grindings in some of the gears, other than that all looks ok to a novice, no missing or chipped teeth.
  12. No, I could have specified that. The key from that shaft was the only reason that it shifted at all. The cam couldn't move far enough for that key to come out of place. This other key is higher and will not work as the cam cannot come over it.
  13. In addressing some shifting issues I've pulled the cover off the range transmission. The pin holding the shifter cam to the shifter spindle and lever was sheared off and the spring holding the other cam with tension was intact but in the bottom of the transmission case. Things look in pretty good shape given that it was still shifting almost reasonably except for the fact you were lucky to get out of reverse. I am wondering about the head of a sheared off bolt, black iron with a seven sixteenths head and five sixteenths thread. I don't see where it came from,and I don't see it in the diagrams of either the shifting linkage or the gear pictures. There is also a woodruff key loose, possibly from one of the forks, though they seem to both be ok. Any info in this regard would be appreciated, thanks.
  14. Thanks for your reply. I noticed a bit of space between two of the disks. I went between others with a flat screw driver and eventually the pump shaft and housing came out. The disks where pretty mushed together with bits of a broken disk in between binding them all together. On with the rest of it.
  15. I'm into rebuilding the PTO unit on my 706 and with the unit removed I am not able to get the pump to come off from the part where the clutch disks are. I have taken out the four three eigth's inch bolts holding it to the rest of the unit. Right now I have it suspended an inch off the table and have been rapping it with a soft blow hammer, looks like some of the disks want to come with it. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.