north of 60

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About north of 60

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    Northern Canada
  • Interests
    1966 IHC Loadstar 1700 truck tractor, 1086 IHC & 560 IHC tractors, 1956 IHC TD9 crawler with dozer blade and winch

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  1. That is some impressive work !!! Looks great, can't wait to see the finished project ...
  2. I suppose that could happen. The use of ether to assist starting Diesel engines has been discussed extensively on many other forums, and probably this one too. I think the general consensus is that used in moderation there should be no long term effects.. Some say they use it all the time with no issues, others say never use it, and a lot are in between, but acknowledging to use it sparingly when you do..
  3. Yes, like sugarmaker says, spending time getting the gas side functioning would be your best investment of time at this point. If you get everything working there it should start, and then your off to races... Starting these old critters in diesel mode is not that easy. If I had to do it all over again I would definitely have fixed the gas side of mine first. It wasn't hard to get everything back working there, and it fires up now in a couple revolutions. 😀
  4. The shorter winch lever is to engage it, the longer outside one is for the winch brake... Sounds like the adjusting ring on your clutch needs to be backed off a bit (counterclockwise looking from the rear of the clutch assembly). That should allow your clutch lever to overcenter and stay in place there like it should. This is a fairly easy adjustment to make. I have removed both the crank pulley bolts and the hydraulic pump from the front, and I would say the pump was the easier of the two to remove. My radiator guard is hinged on the bottom, only 2 bolts hold it in place, but yours might be different. Grant
  5. I should have added that I first started my TD91 in diesel mode, after I got the engine turning over from being seized, with a good battery and boosting it at the same time. The gas side of mine was not functioning at all then. I have since fixed the gas side, and it is now very easy to start it in gas mode, easily and smoothly switches over to diesel...
  6. If you have a keyed ignition switch, you may want to leave the key on so your temp gauge works.. not sure how that works on the older pull out button ignition switches... Once you switch over to diesel mode there should be no issue leaving the key on, as the switch in the intake manifold opens so there will be no power beyond that point. You could try to start it in diesel mode with a bit of ether, you just definitely don't want to overdue it with the ether, as it will dry out your cylinders very quickly if you do. The manuals all say not to tow these crawlers to start them, so not sure which would be the best of the worst, ether or towing. Neither is an ideal situation... If you decide to use ether, small bursts of ether spray work best, if you can get it firing. If it starts running, don't use any more ether unless it's dying, then just small bursts.. enough to keep it running. It should run smoother as it warms up, if you need to keep using the ether then something is not right with the fuel supply .. Grant
  7. If you are only moving it 200 feet to where the truck can pick it up, you should be able do that just on the gas cycle, if you can get it started on gas. You will have low rpm therefore limited power, so you may not be able to load it on the truck under its own power if the incline is too steep. This is how I would do it (after making sure there was sufficient engine oil, coolant, some fresh diesel and the small gas tank full of fresh gas) 1) Put the compression lever into the gas position, 2) make sure the gas is turned on under the sediment bowl ( you may want to check at the carb to make sure the gas is getting there, but you can do that later if it doesn't fire in the first minute or so). Make sure the diesel tank valve is open, if you have one under the tank. 3) pull the choke out 4) if you have an ignition switch, turn it on 5) start turning the engine over, if it fires right away, great. You may have to adjust the choke to keep it running. You should get some oil pressure right away, even if it's just turning over. 6) after it runs for a minute or two and starts to "smooth out", try switching it over to diesel. This will involve moving the compression lever into the diesel position and moving the diesel throttle to at least half throttle at the same time. If it doesn't fire up on diesel right away, be ready to quickly switch back to gas mode with the compression lever to keep it running. If you can't get it to fire on diesel you may have a fuel line blockage, or the lines may need to be bled of air, from the tank right through to the injectors. Hopefully your injection pump is good. (Check the oil in it also before you try to start the engine, takes about a half pint of regular crankcase oil) .. If it won't fire or start on gasoline mode: ------------------------------ If you have gas and spark at the cylinders, and the air intake is clear of obstructions, it should fire at least. If it doesn't fire, and the timing is correct, one or more of these is missing .. and your challenge will be to find out which it is .. If you have a spark plug tester, check to see if you have spark at the coil outlet and the plugs. If you don't have spark, it could be the switch in the end of the intake manifiold is not closing when you switch to gas mode. This is easy to check with a circuit tester. You should have power at both terminals on the end of the manifold if it is closing properly. If you have power to the distributor, then you will want to check the condition of points and make sure they are opening properly. The coil and condenser also need to be doing their job. You should have power at the terminal on the side of the distributor when the points are open. (You may have a magneto on this unit rather than a distributor).. If you have spark but no gas to cylinders, it could be a blocked fuel line, carb blockage or adjustment issue, or a problem with the butterfly valves in the intake manifold that allow the gas into the cylinders when in gasoline mode. If you need more help, let us know. Good luck ! Grant
  8. I can't see your starter in the picture, but you say it's under the oil filters ? Usually they are not located in a spot that difficult to access, but I am not familiar with this specific engine ? I can help you with all the levers except the one by the gear shift, not familiar with that one, but someone on the forum will be ... The one to the far right is the hydraulic pump control lever for the blade, like you thought, The 2 levers on the far left are for the winch, one lever engages it, forward is one winch direction, middle is disengaged, and back is the opposite direction from forward position. The other lever beside it is for the winch brake. You can follow the rod back to the winch brake to see which lever controls it. You have to engage the clutch for the winch to work, once you have the winch lever in back or forward position. You can winch with the gearshift in neutral, or in gear if you are trying to get yourself unstuck ... I would guess that the rod that has been added part way up on the clutch lever was to assist in keeping the the clutch engaged ? Maybe the clutch engagement needed adjusting via the adjusting ring on the back of the clutch, or could not be adjusted for some reason ? The bolts in the front of the crank pulley will release the hydraulic pump that sits ahead of it. It might be easier to remove the pump from the front. It should be connected to the crank pulley by a splined shaft that will pull out the front, unless it has been modified. A picture of the set up you have between the crank pulley and hydraulic pump would help. Grant
  9. I think you will find that removjng the starter and using a suitable bar on the ring gear will be easier than trying to find a part to pry on behind the clutch... I tried that first too, but found it worked much better when I switched my prying efforts to the ring gear.. and that's where I eventually had success getting the engine to turn .. Grant
  10. Muffler looks good !
  11. Can you hook the tractor hydraulics to another implement that would need a similar pressure to lift ? That should tell you right away whether it's your tractor or the new disc connections or ram ..
  12. Ok, now I understand what you have in mind. Thx for the pictures, haven't seen a "V" snow plow in use in my area for a few years now ...
  13. Glad to see you back here KoO ! Hope you're doing okay up there. Haven't seen any posts from you for awhile. Your past posts have sure helped me, and many others I'm sure, with the old IHC crawlers .. Not exactly sure what information you are looking for .. Grant
  14. Thanks again to all who have contributed to this stream. I have found one new complete injector and have it ordered, and it is on the way... Have also found other new nozzle assemblies only for around $80.00 each. What is the typical cost to have one reconditioned ? Thx, Grant
  15. Had no idea what a "regular" was until I saw the picture.. What years were they built ?