Willie B

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Willie B

  1. My TD7G. I know, it isn't really an IH. Dresser repowered them with a Cummins, and changed the model to G. My son insisted on the new paint. Still waiting for decals. I thought it might not be as clean by the time they arrive. Willie
  2. Finney is another good source for parts. If you need parts or knowledge, call Reggie Lussier at Winmill Equipment in Rutland VT. That man has forgotten nothing he ever knew about IH machines, and he knows all the details! Not a better parts man, or mechanic alive. Willie
  3. I was born in 1956. At the time of my birth my father, and mother worked for the local IH farm dealer. Father had a falling out with the owner, and boycotted the place. Mother kept the books 27 years. I was obsessed with the tractors, wanted them all! Most of the crawlers sold to farmers were 340's The 500's were those who had a need for a real crawler. No, I've never owned a 500. I now have a TD7G, sort of a distant cousin, by a different father. I sure wouldn't refuse a 500 even 50 years later. Willie
  4. Pictures of new paint TD7G

    Just a few finishing touches left to do. Seth did pretty good! Sorry guys, it isn't technically IH, A year earlier, it'd have been.
  5. Frame rail to bolster bolts, Farmall M

    I believe this is a great idea. Be aware that some welders may not survive this practice. Most welders have a thermal overload built into the circuitry. Big, or older, or most bigger modern welders US built will handle it. I'd avoid the practice if all you have is a Chinese machine. Any welder I ever owned will ignite the rod up to 1/8" and it'll burn off like a light bulb with broken glass. Willie In an earlier day I thawed frozen underground water pipes with a Twentieth Century 295 Amp AC welder Circa 1974 with 100% duty cycle. The high resistance of galvanized steel water pipe limited current in the welder. It worked very well. In 1995 the Municipal water system, (200 customers) was rebuilt. Now it's plastic main line, copper branches across the road, and galvanized across lawns, to houses. Electricity doesn't even warm the K copper, but melts the couplings where the low bid contractor attached copper to galv.
  6. Frame rail to bolster bolts, Farmall M

    Wait a minute! Is that a small Atlas Lathe? How's next weekend sound? Willie
  7. Frame rail to bolster bolts, Farmall M

    VT Fireman; I am your father. Heat the bolt heads, Heat them repeatedly. As they cool, use penetrant. If the heads snap off, likely they will, Offer a big washer, and weld through it. As it comes flush, weld on a big nut. Allow to cool each round before trying to use a wrench. It might take several rounds of this. There have been maintenance rods available specifically for this application. The claim is that the flux protects the female thread. Willie
  8. Making Loose Hay

    My father (born 1922) was a farm kid. I was destined to be a farm kid, but the Japanese changed history for lots of us. By the time I was a teenager maybe 1968, or 1969 we lived on 1/2 acre backed up to Green Mountain National forest. There was plenty of unused hay land. My older sister had to have a horse. We put up loose hay using the equipment from the farm. It was mowed with a scythe, bundled, loaded, and stacked with a hay fork. The shape of the stack simulated a thatched roof. My father's skill with a hay fork leaves me astounded to this day. He would heap hay until he was able to stab the center of a pile and lift maybe 50 lbs on a fork. We had no hay wagon, only a small trailer. Four of these forkfuls of hay were arranged on the corners of the trailer deck, a fifth was placed in center to bind. Next layer was six, then two in center. Ultimately, a Farmall Cub, or a Jeep hauled a seven foot wide trailer loaded with 12 feet in width, 7 feet in height. It was unloaded in reverse order forming a stack of ten forkfuls in a circle. Layer upon layer built it to 15 feet in height. A big tarp covered the top. For one horse, grain supplemented a hay diet. Willie
  9. 48 years ago....

    I was around then. There was scuttlebutt at the time that the "Moon" pictures were taken on Earth. I've never doubted the reality of the landing, but I find it hilarious that somebody forgot the film. I imagine the conversation through the bubbles: "I can't believe you forgot the film!" "I didn't forget the film! You did!" "It wasn't my job to remember the film!" Truth is the film was on the roof of the rocket when Aldrin was buckling Armstrong into his rear facing car seat.
  10. skidsteer grading attachment

    Never been tested. It is very fine. It has been used for mason sand with good results. I don't expect it'd be coarse enough for good septic. Willie
  11. skidsteer grading attachment

    Now add 1/4" stone. More voids get filled, it becomes less water receptive. finally add sand. Now very little water sinks in. Shallow grading won't turn up big rocks. Willie
  12. skidsteer grading attachment

    I agree a Harley rake should be your second investment. To make use of the Harley rake, you need material. If your road surface is of what we in the Northeast call bank run, you'll need a different machine. Bank run gravel, in my youth was what a bank provided. Glacial till in VT is where the glaciers went to die. We have hills here and there. One might be pure sand, (I own about a million Cubic yards of sand), the next might be boulders. In VT 231 towns try to give their taxpayers value. If they have a pit (or two) nearby where material is cheap, and trucking is also cheap, they might try to use "bank run". As the vocal voters become better informed, they will demand "crushed gravel". Now we move to better, but exponentially more expensive secondary roads. If the material the town grader encounters is entirely processed, crushed, it is much easier to maintain a good road. A perfect road will contain very little air, and an absolute minimum of water. The best road is one of layers. Below is drainage. Water has no place to hide. Any drop of water big enough to be affected by gravity needs a void to flow through to leave the scene. You have to separate drainage from surface. There are numerous ways to do this, usually layers of small, then smaller stone are used. There are membranes available, usually sealed bid decision making rules out revolutionary solutions. The top layer must be of particles of varying size ranging from 1-3/4' through dust. The best, most durable surfaces are a conglomerate of stone sizes. Add to these 1-3/4" stones some component of 3/4" stone. Many of the spaces get filled. This mix is much more stable under foot, or tire.
  13. Water on road

    Another thread got me thinking. I want to start a new thread to avoid hijacking his thread, and give me a chance to rant, maybe others to share some wisdom. I live in a tiny town, (200 people), In theory, we have 26,000 acres, but the US Forest Service has surveyed 27,500 State of Vermont has another 2000 acres within the township. What this means is we have very little road maintained as highway. I'd guess we have 500 miles of road once used for logging. My father was a self appointed one man road crew to maintain this. He had opinion, mostly based on good logic. No part of any road should ever be exactly level. Level road means water stays in one place long enough to ruin a road. Those not as thoroughly trained as me, and my oldest son rarely understand this concept. Seth was 15 when grandpa died. His brother, much younger. To build a good road, you must start with good drainage. After that it needs surface. A crown, maybe water bars are essential. Width is critical. 12-15 feet of surface is good. Wider, means wheel traffic will cut troughs in the road. A road of correct width must slope down to drain water to the ditch after this width. Wider roads will form potholes. Over time the composition of the soil under the pothole will change to be different from the surrounding road. Under the pothole will be a material impervious to water drainage. A pothole will live forever if it isn't killed. Grade deep enough to cut away everything to a depth deeper than the pothole. Or: Don't let it grow. A nearby town has always been pothole free. The Road Commissioner understands. Crown the road, maintain the crown. Don't ever allow wheel tracks to wear lower than the road beside them, and fill any small depressions immediately. He would argue a road needs grading twice a year. Traffic gives you a hard packed surface. Too much grading makes it soft, it'll wear faster, form potholes faster, and hills make washboards, as inexperienced drivers accelerate as they climb the hill. Willie
  14. Water on road

    The next town, Danby has about 1000 people. US 7 runs up the border between the two towns. Danby has about 50 miles of town roads, 1/3 paved. The grader operator for 40 years was a 400 pounder famous for his laziness. He suddenly died. I worried who they might find to not grade the roads the way he didn't. It turned out there are several people now to not grade the roads. Road quality hasn't changed at all. They still get graded 1" deep once a year. A pothole in the morning will be as big as ever upon the first rain. A 6" deep pothole will lose 1" of depth, and be filled with loose gravel. Rain turns that loose gravel to sponge. The first tire to hit it splashes the sponge out of the hole. Thank God for the Prius. They fill the potholes. Other drivers pass over them never knowing what filled these big potholes. Willie
  15. Water on road

    Keeping tires in the center of the road is lesson #2 from dad. If everybody straddles the center of the (1 lane) road. it forms two strips of depressions. Running left wheels in center, and right on the edge of the traveled portion prevents this. Pothole formation requires depressions. Prevent depressions, prevent potholes. Willie
  16. skidsteer grading attachment

    My father was obsessed with erosion, and road maintenance in a time it was less publicized. We border Green Mountain National Forest. In my youth we had the run of 50,000 acres of forest land covered with log roads. On thirty year intervals, loggers would use these roads, the rest of the time, it was a few locals. Dad was of the opinion that you had to get the water off the road. A properly shaped road will remain that way only briefly if everybody drives in the same pair of wheel tracks. I was taught to drive with one wheel in the center, the other on the edge of the roadbed. This practice eliminates the low wheel track that allows rainwater to run down the road. A road used this way must be about 15' wide or less for travel, then slope down to a ditch. Try it. You won't get the potholes, or ruts that form when you straddle the center. Willie
  17. skidsteer grading attachment

    While you want a crown, you also want it longitudinally flat. The local crushed rock facility uses a group of I beams welded together as a drag. Their yard is smooth as a baby's but. I've thought about it, A drag half the width of the road would provide a road with two facets, and a narrow "peak" in the middle. Two heavy I beams would lay parallel to the road spaced half the road apart. Use as long as you can afford, at least 10' long. These will run like sled runners flat side down. Cross members would be I beam laid like an H. I have some grouser stock I would weld to the leading edge of the crossmembers. I suggest a stiff A frame tongue that hinges at the leading edge of the drag. Make it as heavy as your tractor easily tows. Put the crown in your road with a scraper back blade. Finish it with the drag. Nothing flattens road with stones in it. I feel good road gravel is crushed to 1-3/4" and smaller. You want a ratio with mostly coarse (1-3/4") with just enough fines to fill the gaps between. John D Rockefeller had his crews build many miles of beautiful roads for horse and wagon traffic. His specifications included very good drainage. Once all drainage was in place, they placed 6" rock to a depth I think was around a foot deep, well crowned. A thin layer of 2" went on to fill the voids between the 6" rock. A 6" deep layer of what began as very stony gravel but was crushed to 3/4" and less. This affords good surface to grade. A hundred years, these roads are in great condition. Another famous gravel road is Mount Washington. It was similarly built. Maintenance crews drag a drag made up of dozens of stiff push broom heads. No washboards, or potholes have ever been present. Willie
  18. Orphan: TD7G

    The TD7E was a legitimate IH. Half the people in the world love them. TD7G is after Dresser got involved. There is little difference other than the unpleasantly loud Cummins engine of the same displacement as the beloved IH engine. Even parts are tougher without the same network of collectors. Mine is getting a facelift, a paint job. I need to order decals. Nobody but me will know whether it is IH or Dresser. I'm considering a fake IH disguise. I welcome opinions. Willie
  19. Backhoe project for TD6

    I know nothing of the Kioti Backhoe's needs. Unless you want to run the crawler's engine full out you may need a higher volume pump than Kioti specs. Confirm that your PTO is Live, (the tractor need not be in motion to run PTO). Also confirm it is 540. I would be concerned it might be engine speed PTO.
  20. Wheelie Bars

    I'm not a very serious tractor puller. Usually, I'm the guy loading blocks, back dragging the track, or hooking. #1 son is more serious. His Farmall M is outfitted. He's got some expensive 1941 parts, and a couple tons of iron added. His wheelie bars consist of three point hitch posts replacing bolts at top, and a three point drawbar (Ford style) bolted to the stock IH drawbar. Removable wheelie bars are held in place with four lynch pins. My M has no wheelie bars. It is bone stock. I've never pulled at well organized pulls, never been asked to have wheelie bars. Yesterday, we attended a private pull organized by friends. On my first pull, almost to the stop line, a big fat guy appeared, waving his arms, he shouts: "back up! Unhitch! No wheelie bars, you can't pull!" My first impulse was; Who to **** are you? Last night I looked up the rules. I'm not exactly clear about everything. "5" behind the radius of the tire" ........" in no way dependent on the drawbar". Does anybody have a good design for wheelie bars to fit an M? Willie
  21. Wheelie Bars

    This was wide open, invitation only, hosted by a couple on their front lawn. All tractors were antique, most weighted. Mine was the only non weighted, non modified tractor. They had asked the club they belong to to provide insurance. "Wheelie Bar Bob" used this as his right to enforce rules that may not apply. The National, or is it regional rules apply to transfer sleds. We have a stone boat. That day two tractors lifted the front wheels. My son's M and a mid afternoon party crasher who always shows up with a heavily modified Oliver with Detroit power. My M and my son's M are 6 800 LB blocks apart. His is small compared to several heavy tractors. There is no scale, so its all in fun. A congenial crowd, the worst I've ever seen was offending the female half of the host couple suggesting a tractor should have more than two cylinders, (her family sold John Deere in the 40's and 50's) Good friends all....... with one exception. Willie
  22. 150 orphan loader

    In 1979 my cellar hole was dug with one of these. It was a staggering job as my soil is boulder only. Dig away all the stone ranging from Volkswagen to basketball sized, there is only a tiny bit of gravel left. It seemed to take two days to dig to depth, create a small flat spot, from there it was remove everything that fell to it. I have always been so impressed with the versatility of a Drott bucket. The family business that dug it has owned maybe 10 175 sized track loaders, but only one 150. They have dug a few out from disuse, revived them, and offered them for sale. I considered one, a mid seventies vintage 175 ran well, but was reluctant to shift from high to low, had a plain 1.75 loader bucket, (not Drott), he asked $6800. I passed because a cross member was broken, crudely welded, and broke again. Since I really wanted a dozer, not a loader, I let it go. I believe he got around $5500. Old tractors have a finite value in good condition. The cost of transformation from fair to good is tricky to estimate. Willie
  23. How much to charge to bush hog?

    Here it's rocks, mud, iron, and wire. Breakage out costs fuel and labor. I've never hogged a whole day without breakage. My in laws had an old barn foundation surrounded by overgrown Sumac, and blackberry, and goldenrod, and unidentified brush. I spent Sunday afternoon picking through it removing wire, and iron. Returning next week to hog, I saw the pile of debris was removed. Huh! I thought, somebody cleaned it up! Seconds later I knew where it had been moved to. Repairs were in the hundreds. When you mow your own, you take risks of breakage. Mow somebody else's they expect you to take the risks. I feel hog work is most unprofitable unless you cover expenses. Willie
  24. Trailer bearings

    Last year we had trouble with spring hangers on the triaxle 9 ton. I flipped it upside down, and reworked all the hangers. They had suffered some very crude repair work in the past, and needed help bad. #1 son wanted to replace bearings, and seals at that time, but it didn't get done. Yesterday he decided with a big tractor pull upcoming this weekend it was time. At the moment it's our only tractor hauler. No loading dock at this pull, so putting them on the truck isn't an option. One spindle proved to be heavily damaged by a bearing failure. As the bearing in it seemed intact, but worn, I presume someone had replaced the bearing without addressing the spindle. That's when we learned the sizes are non standard. Swopping entire axles is going to be a very big deal. Nothing will fit, brakes, drums, wheels will all be different. The trailer is a 1985 Economy. The axle manufacturer is unknown, but the previous owner bought brakes, we've bought wheels, and tires. Willie
  25. Trailer bearings

    Update: We found a supplier. they will build a new axle to match. Willie