alourinho

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About alourinho

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  1. Hi, Thanks for the photos. So you put a water hose into the engine coolant inlet and watched it go out by the engine outlet as if the water was coming back to the radiator - is this right? Thanks you,
  2. Thanks a lot for the response. Although I know I should have avoided it I couldn't resist starting the tractor today again - it worked ok and no overheating nor black stuff coming out of the radiator. I will not try it again before doing a radiator flush until is becomes clean. Regarding the radiator flush, do you have an idea of how it should be done in this model? Is there a valve in the engine to let the water out while I put the hose in the radiator filler hole? Should I start the engine to warm it before starting? Thanks in advance.
  3. Hi, Before I started working I put some tap water in the radiator. I thought it would be enough - apparently not. Should I use tap water at all? The radiator started to overheat and push water out. The black stuff I assumed it was oil but I'm not sure. Ive never put antifreeze in the radiator...since I bought it - this is the first time I've ever put the tractor to work since I bought it besides putting it at idle. thanks in advance,
  4. Hi, lookinh at the oil cooler again it is connected only to two hoses, which I believe are the oil inlet and outlet. Water does not seem to get in the oil cooler. If so, oil cannot be getting in the water in the oil cooler. Am I thinking this right?
  5. The oil engine level seems ok - nevertheless the oil coming out from the radiator filler was not much - it might not to be noticeable in the oil level due to that... I took a look at the oil cooler - in the outside it doesn't have oil in it but I suppose that the problem can be on the inside. Should it be pressure tested under heat to check whether this is the problem? thanks in advance,
  6. Hi, Today i have been using the ih 684. After about an acre it started blowing vapor from the radiator cap. After stopping it I noticed a black liquid that was coming out of the radiator overflow tube - I've had water fully refilled before starting the day and as soon as I stopped the tractor it was completely empty. What can be causing this? What things should I be checking? Thanks in advance.
  7. Hi, That was it - putting the lever in the center position solved the problem. thanks a lot.
  8. Hi, where is the remote hydraulic control valve located? thanks in advance.
  9. Hi, today i started the ih 684 and noticed a strange noise underneath - I noticed that the noise does not occur when I steer the wheel (which is hydraulically assisted) or if I move the rear hydraulic arms. The noise comes back immediately after. I tried to find the origin of the noise and found a leak - by smell it seems to be hydraulic oil. The pipe is quite thick located under the fuel tank. This pipe vibrates a lot. is there any way of fixing this kind of pipe? Is it normal for this kind of pipe to be vibrating due to a leak? additionally, in this tractor there is an oil cap in the rear and a stick near the left foot step. Using the stick I can see that the oil level is ok - are these stick and cap for the hydraulic oil - can oil be put into the rear cap if needed? thank you.
  10. Hi, i do not know about the oil pressure but I always use 15w40 on my ih 684 as I believe is the best replacement for the sae 30. Could you elaborate on why you used 15w30?
  11. Hi, Finally managed to start the IH 484 after a few years fully stopped. The battery was ok and also the cables (checked for resistance with a multimeter). Just took the ends off and on again after cleaning to make sure proper contact was being made to the starter and chassis. Also checked for continuity between the positive battery cable terminal and the chassis and there was none. After bleeding one of the injector fittings and a lot of cranking finally fuel started to come out. After a lot of cranking again it finally started - at first uneven but then stabilized. Incredibly mechanically it sounds quite well after all those years stopped - alternator, starter engine and fuel pump seems also ok. Thanks for the help.
  12. Hi, I managed to remove the bolts after 2 weeks, after applying WD40 and using a long pipe attached to the wrench. Thanks a lot for the responses.
  13. Hi all, I'm trying to have an IH 484 work again - this is a tractor that was always stored under a roof for 30/40 year and rarely used - probably once or twice a year - to do little work - it still has a perfect original paint and no rust at all, except for the fuel tank. As the fuel tank was rusty i removed it, had it sand blasted, welded to cover the lower end where the holes were and repainted it again with the best color match i managed to find. As the fuel tank balance fuel line was also pretty much wasted with rust i replaced the two taps with modern ones (in replacement of the original copper taps), used a flexible fuel hose to balance fuel and then reinstalled the fuel tank - no leaks were detected after all this. After having installed the tanks i bled the primary filter (in the right side of the tractor) and all went ok - then i bled the secondary filter (on the left side of the tractor) and no fuel came out - thought that it could be some kind of clogging in the fuel line between the two filters so i used a bicycle pump (i have no compressor :)) and fuel came out - after all it was just air in the fuel line - so, i managed to bleed the secondary fuel filter. At this point i unscrewed the fuel pump inlet and fuel came out - as such, fuel is getting into the fuel pump. At this point i though - well, the tractor has been idle for about 5 year - as such, the injector fuel lines are empty - as such, i will have to crank it a lot in order to fill the fuel lines to each of the 3 injectors - so, i started doing that. Now comes the problem - we have a 110Amp battery - nevertheless, after cranking for about 3 seconds we start feeling that the starter engines gets weak a lot - as if the battery was depleted although it had been fully charged just then. I have the feeling that the battery might even be depleted even before starting cranking - is this possible? If anyone out there has a 484 - of how much Amps is your battery? - for how much time are your able to crank before the battery starts to become weaker? Additionally, how can i troubleshoot such a thing? In these conditions i will have to be cranking for weeks Additionally, i noticed that the tractor owner keeps the battery charger connected to the battery while cranking - is this a good practice? Thanks a lot for your help.
  14. I've always used WD40 - nevertheless, about 6 months ago i used it in a particular bolt and was unable to remove it. Today! i tried again and it came out with ease - this really confirms what you said - it may take days, weeks or even months to work. Moved by your comment that WD40 is not the best penetrating oil, i've made a search and found that a mix of ATF-Acetone mix seems to be 5 times more effective then WD40 in some conditions - i found this information in the following page: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59511 I'm going to try to heat it as you said and let it cool for a few times and see how it goes. Thanks a lot for the responses.
  15. Hi, This isn't much of a mechanics related questions - i'm removing most of the parts and sheet metal of an IH 684 to have it painted somewhere else. Problem is - the front weight support is fixed by a set of 4 30mm bolt which i'm having quite a problem taking of. I've already tried putting a lot of WD40, using a long pipe attached to the wrench to give it more torque, ... and nothing seems to work - none of the 4 bolts move an inch. Do you have any secret techniques for this kind of problem? Thanks in advance.