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About RustyNumbat

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Western Australia
  • Interests
    TD35, Fordson Major e27n

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  1. A TD35 in Australia

    Does anyone have specs for the td35 PTO shaft? I'm away from my machibe and am finally trying to sort out a new hydraulic pump. GreasyJohn also mentioned he had emailed a specialist seals company in the US...
  2. T-20 vs Cat22 (Video)

    Be sure to look at the rest of our videos, highlight is the TD35 stuff of course!
  3. T-20 vs Cat22 (Video)

    Mmmmm the sound of GreasyJohn being corrected He's rolling a "rollie" or self assembled tobacco cigarette.
  4. T-20 vs Cat22 (Video)

    GreasyJohn and I (the AussieOffsider) proudly present our latest jape in vintage machinery, a bit of a look and a tug of war between these two machines from the 1930s. Hope you enjoy, and please feel free to correct every factual inaccuracy made by GreasyJohn, I live for that sort of thing.
  5. A TD35 in Australia

    Well I finally got a go on a PROPER T20 at the show this weekend. The early model grey one I went on last year, with it's infuriating layout that I couldn't work, doesn't count Great little machine, really gutsy. I'd very much like to buy one now, even though a bloke my age shouldn't be wasting money on toy tractors! Was running it using the startup tank, so had to keep refueling it. A thirsty little machine! As you can see I'm way too tall and fat to operate the steering levers effectively! Big thanks to Mr Jackson for lending it to me for the day!
  6. A TD35 in Australia

    G'day all, Does anyone have a reference photo of the TD35 decal that was on the side of the seat? I've got a nice photo of the "T20" one, but I'd like a clear photo of the "T35" one as I'm getting decals made up and they're waiting on a reference image. So if anyone has one and can get a photo for me I'd be very much obliged And of course, if you're in need of the same decal I can furnish you with the details of the decal maker, who can no doubt turn out some more copies (since I'm paying for them to put the image together for their printer)
  7. Decal Set needed for TD 40

    I'd just look up online decal making stores online in your state/country and fire them off e-mails asking how much. Even sleeping old Australia had a handful of companies doing decals online, all very professional looking, and the cost they quoted me for making up a TD35 decal from a photo and sending me two of them was only about $60USD which really surprised me. Any decal sets I found online were typically from the US and probably would have cost me more than $200AUD to have sent here. I guess it comes down to what you can find pre-made vs the cost to have one made up, but happily these days it's so easy for designers to whip something up on a computer. Good luck!
  8. Decal Set needed for TD 40

    I e-mailed a few decal places online here in Aus when I was looking into it, and it really seemed some places were more than happy to make up decals from photos, at very reasonable prices. So that could be an option for you where you are, unless you're after 100% originals. But honestly any half competent digital artist can easily trace a stencil from a good photo these days, so there's no reason you shouldn't be able to find a reasonably priced service!
  9. A TD35 in Australia

    Finally bit the bullet and took the hydraulic pump off, all of the bolts holding it together almost came off finger loose. All of that spare hydraulic fluid really kept everything nice and lubricated. Seems the only leak at the back is coming out of a hole on the PTO coupling, so looks like I need to work out which seal has gone... Amazingly the OUT pipe had a fitting on it that unscrewed easily, even though it looked to be all welded up... Good looking unit. I suspect there is a seal missing here, unless it's just meant to be a self sealed bush or something. Gonna take the whole unit to GreasyJohns house so he can have a look at it all! So the moral of the story so far is don't be afraid, give it a go and see if you can unbolt it!
  10. Old hydraulic setups

    Well the good news is the main pump housing doesn't seem to be leaking, the bolts on it turn easily and I tightened everything up a few turns. The bad news is that my leak is coming from the housing of the PTO connecting shaft. Hydro fluid is just bubbling from what I assume is a hair fracture or something like that. It doesn't seem to particularly be pressurized when it comes out, but it doesn't leak when the PTO (and thus pump) is disengaged. Anyone know if I can just steel-putty up a hole like that? GreasyJohn also thinks the seals within the pump might be cactus, but it gets plenty of power to the blade, enough for my purposes anyway. Also looking at my photos, can anyone suggest which part of my hydraulic controls would be the mechanism for adjusting the feedback bypass valve? (assuming it has one...)
  11. Old hydraulic setups

    Thanks all for the advice We've got to check out a drip from around the pump, and see what sort of seals the arms have as they also need replacing. I'm dead keen on getting the leaks fixed so I can play with my toy without leaking oil all over the farm! Hopefully the leak around the pump can be fixed with adhesive or steel putty or something instead of messing with opening the pump... All the fluid will be replaced with brand new stuff once the leaks are taken care of! Should the hydraulic reserve tank be closed air tight when not in use, to prevent condensation entering?
  12. Muffler?

    Well here's ONE young bloke who usually uses hearing protection (and I don't spend hours on a machine every week in any case, and if I do at work I ALWAYS wear protection) so the message gets through to SOME
  13. A TD35 in Australia

    Well I'm pleased as punch. After the whole "a hydraulic line failed" thing a while back, today dad and I finished replacing two of the hyd hoses to the right hand ram. My first time mucking around with hydraulics, plenty of advice sought here and elsewhere online, as well as my in house mechanic GreasyJohn. Here's both hoses replaced, using the same old saddle clamps plus some modern hose clamps. They sit a bit higher than the old ones, they're much more flexible so I could have cut them shorter I guess. In any case I've not refilled and tested it yet, I'll certainly be putting some protection between myself and the new joins as I test it. I also only have my mixture of half half old and new hydraulic oil, which shouldn't be too bad as I don't use the machine much. I had to crawl under the machine to pick up some tools, first time I've had a good look under there. Found the grease points for the main rear axel, but more importantly I found that there's a big gap on the left hand axel housing. Not sure if there's supposed to be a seal there or something, but I'm sure I need to do something about it...
  14. Old hydraulic setups

    "positive feedback", please explain? :S Well I finally got the first new hose on, took some pictures this time! The hook of the lower strap is hooked onto the edge of the deck where the right brake comes though the deck. Here you see my setup for using a strap and ratchet to provide the torque to get the new hose on. Easy as! The new hose all on and tightened up. I'm guessing that as the new rubber compresses/settles I'll need to tighten the saddles and hose clamps further. I really should be buying new bolts for the saddle clamps, but eh they lasted this long! Here's the PTO hydraulic pump. It has a bit of a drip, can anyone offer advice if these old things come apart and go back together nicely? Seems to have big brass gaskets on it. I can live with a slight drip (I wire a tin under it) if pulling apart might wreck the whole thing....
  15. Old hydraulic setups

    Thanks for the guesstimate! One more question for those still playing along at home - When I refill the system, do I need to bleed air or anything like that as I do it? As far as I know the pump is still full of fluid, being at the bottom of the system.