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About SAM86

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    New York
  • Interests
    '49 McCormick Deering OS4
    '49 McCormick Deering ODS6
    '51 McCormick Deering OS6

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  1. Repair / Restoration strategy recommendations?

    I wold suggest getting all of the mechanical repairs out of the way first and verify the are sound then worry about looking good. Nothing worse than spending the time on a good paint job just to muck it up. As you can see in the following pictures I thought I was done with mechanical repairs only to find out with one week old paint that an axle tube gasket was bad. Apparently all of the rock hard grease I removed was acting as the gasket. If you have the time and know what you need to repair, go for a repair and restoration in one shot. Just plan on finding more than expected with these old girls.
  2. I/H TD-6 Engine weight

    Have to agree with oleman and MCC. The head alone is 120+ lbs and I believe the injection pump is 100+ lbs alone as well. I recently lifted a "6" series diesel without the head installed and had to use the 1/2 ton reach on the cherry picker. It lifted it, but we had to be careful, the cherry picker arm was bowing pretty good. You may be within the weight limit of a snowmobile trailer but I would at least use some cribbing to spread the weight over the plywood.
  3. Here is a stupid question but...

    Ok, so I have not been in the NAVY but worked in the Nuclear industry for almost 10 years, including some projects on the new "flat tops". It would be my .02 that the figures are not reported correctly. 2.8 gigawatts is equivalent to 2800 megawatts, or for perspective the equivalent of one of the largest US commercial Nuclear power plants in the US. Pretty much every aspect related to power generation out of submarines is classified so I'm sure some expert provided the figures. The operation of new NAVY ships is highly reliant on electrical power, so power distribution is critical. It may be as easy as docking and wiring the ship to the grid just like your house. Highly simplified example of course.
  4. IH SW6-TA help

    Had to chuckle a little when I saw the post about the loose cam nut. Happened to my grandfathers OS6 in the '70's. He lined it up and attached it permanently. Ran that way for anther 20 plus years untill it was parked. Barn fell down on the tractor then winter and frozen water took care of the engine. The welded cam nut was one of a couple ways we were able to confirm it was my grandfathers tractor when I bought it back 2 years ago.
  5. OS 6 radiator

    Probably already looked into it but, All States AG Parts lists a 3 row for $375 and a 4 row heavy duty for $585.
  6. OS 6 radiator

    Haven't used them but have heard of them. If it would help I have a $50 off a $250 or more order coupon for steiner this month.
  7. Getting ready to paint my '49 OS6 and am wondering if you guys have any tips and tricks for painting all of the loose small hardware. The fenders and platforms have almost 70 bolts with hex nuts and lock washers alone. I plan on installing as much hardware as I can on the chassis as that will be painted this fall. I won't be painting all the tins untill the spring as I've got a ways to go on getting them into good shape. So far I have a few cardboard boxes setup with bolts and such stuck into them, thus will require a paint, dry, flip, and paint again to get full coverage. Hopefully in the near future I will do a full thread on the restoration when I have a little more free time.
  8. IH Mccormick Orchard O4 Parts

    Check with burgh implement in PA. I bought some parts off a W4 they have in their yard that is being dismantled. My experiences have been A+ with them.
  9. IH Mccormick Orchard O4 Parts

    Had to try out the new picture posting functionality so here are some images of the components on my "6".
  10. IH Mccormick Orchard O4 Parts

    The throttle mechanism should be the same as a W4. The steering "base" itself is different between the W and O series. I'm assuming the steel lever has broken at the aluminum connection at the steering base. You have some options for repair just depends on available tooling and how concerned you are about it looking original or a replacement should be straight forward. The mechanism as a whole is very simple but they can begin to work hard over time as rust and debris accumulates in the thrust bearing (brass shim) between the steering base and left side flange of the throttle mechanism. If needed I have my OS6 in the garage and can take the pieces apart and post some pictures. I just had it apart as it moved way too stiff and the long steel lever started working loose from the aluminum pice it is pressed into.
  11. W4 Cast Wheel Removal

    I spent the better part of two months getting the hubs off my ODS6, same configuration as your W4 just larger. They can/will come off but it depends largely on the resources and patients you have. I ended up using a 20 ton bottle jack pushing on the axle with a saddle and chains connected to the outside of the hub. I then spent a lot of time heating the hub and hitting the back side of it over the axle to help "shock" and break up some of the rust. I then added a lot more heat, as much tension I could with the jack and proceeded to get one heck of a work out with the biggest sledge hammer I had hitting the back side of the hub. After several rounds of heat and a workout with the sledge they finally started moving. Depending on your situation you can remove the whole axle and axle tube from the tractor. Unbolt the outer bearing cap and the axle tube will come off then take it to a shop or get it into a huge press with a lot of applied heat. If you do a search on here there was a post, probably in the last year of someone removing the hubs from a W9. If I remember correctly a custom puller was made and two weed burners were used to apply heat. For that situation it looked like it worked really well. I can tell you don't waste any time and expense on penetrating oil. It will not creep into those splines when they are badly rusted.
  12. OS4

    Production of the Orchard series ended in 1953. They overlapped production of the first Super series tractors but were not carried into the super series themselves. Late 1949 and 1950 saw implementation of disc brakes.
  13. OS4

    Without seeing the I.D. tag it actually looks like its an O4 not an OS4. Its missing the over wheel rear fenders and side fenders but still has the hinged hood and the panel under the gas tank used on the O4. The fenders have probably been long removed and someone put OS4 rear fenders on it. Also looks like an all-fuel model evident by the second gas gap in the picture. Tires alone are worth 2/3's or better of the asking price. If it were near me it would probably be in the barn. Agree with Orchard6, in the north east asking prices for running and or good condition O4 and OS4 tractors can carry some sticker shock.
  14. Looking for parts....Again...Updated

    Would any other Orchard owners possibly be interested in reproduction Covers? If so I have found a gentlemen that has reproduced them and is willing to make more but would be better if there were a quantity instead of just the 2 that I currently need. If interested please reply to the topic or send me a message and I will contact you directly with details.
  15. Many types of many colors kind of auction

    Wow... and go figure, the one part that I'm on the hunt for is sitting on the hood of the unrestored OS4, actually three of them.