• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About SAM86

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New York
  • Interests
    '49 McCormick Deering OS4
    '49 McCormick Deering ODS6
    '51 McCormick Deering OS6

Recent Profile Visitors

499 profile views
  1. What's your favorite snack

    I still embrace my inner child and go for the Goldfish. Cheddar or Pizza flavored.
  2. As I originally said I will keep posting as time and the kiddo allow. This week the weather took over having been an absolute rollercoaster. 18-24” on the ground last weekend, a week of sun and rain washed it all away then back to negatives and a fresh 16-20” on Saturday. I love the old gals but rely on the newer muscle for the day to day needs. Back to the 6. After fitting the sheet metal and building the exhaust my brother was kind enough to sandblast all the tinwork. I think I jumped the gun on that picture a post or two ago. All the little parts that were blasted were sprayed with etching primer and prepared for paint. We ended up building one good seat assembly out of two. The original on had been straightened out like a “w” series. The parts tractor had a good down swept tube but the seat connection was rusted off. So the center section of the parts tube was married to the two good ends of the original. Go figure I would stumble on a complete orchard seat assembly in the flea market of a local tractor show not long after completing the other. I handed over the $10.00 without question. Having never used an HVLP spray gun I spent a lot of time researching tips and techniques. Turned the garage into a contained booth with huge furnace blower for fume extraction. I purposely left openings in the top of the plastic curtain so the draft would be down and away from me and the parts. After a quick test the “booth” worked well, acutually too well as I had to resecure some of the curtain. No smell of paint and any over spray made a b-line for the blower intake. I also used a full paint suit, respirator, goggles and covered all exposed skin. I think we spent the better part of two nights masking, prepping and wiping down all the parts. Then spent another few hours hanging all the parts n the boot. After a few practice panels I jumped in head fist laying down the primer. Took some time to really figure the gun out but overall everything went well. I know it’s not the correct color but we opted to used CIH Iron Guard 2150, with Iron Guard gray primer. We felt it was a middle of the road option cost and quality wise that I won’t be afraid of getting a scratch in.
  3. The “Deering” was removed after 1946.
  4. Michael, yep I used 2” black iron 45’s and some close nipples. The gentlemen that made the fuel cap covers for me was casting reproduction elbows but I opted for the black iron. You can’t see them anyway as the whole pipe is wrapped with header insulation like the originals (minus the asbestos) For the remainder of the pipe I use a 2” mandrel bent 180 degree, long leg pipe from hooker headers. I can get one full exhaust out of one piece.
  5. M, what oil in rear?

    If your going to change the transmission oil at a minimum I suggest you remove the pto from the back of the transmission, a few bolt and it slides right out. You will only need to get or make one gasket. This will allow you to scrape/flush out all of the heavy goo from the bottom of the case and clean any debris out from inside the pto housing. That old goo holds alot of debris you don't want making its way back into circulation.
  6. Fast forward to this summer and I moved the OS6 from my parents barn to my garage just to keep me on track. Spent a lot of additional time scraping and cleaning old greas, oil and who knows what off the old girl. Additional repairs continued including welding up the badly worn draw bar, chassis bolts and lock washers were replaced, getting the water pump flanges moving, rebuilt the generator, and so many other nickel and dime items I can’t remember. We partially reassembled the sheet metal to check all the fits and so I could build the exhaust and recreate the exhaust bracket. I’m glad we went through the effort as we found several small items that needed attention that would have been not so fun to accomplish after primer and paint. One piece that was missing that I had no luck finding an original for sale was the fuel cap cover. I was able to find a gentlemen making some reproduction orchard tins that made them before so I ordered two, one for the 6 and the other for the 4. I was very pleased with the quality and after a few minor tweaks they fit perfect.
  7. The exhaust was broken out of the manifold so we poured in ATF, figured why not. It was in vain because all cylinders were freeze cracked right through the block.
  8. Next on the list to tackle was and still is the sheet metal. When the barn fell down the nose come, hood, gas tank and fenders all received heavy damage. The gas tank was beyond repair from internal rust and being dented so one was sourced from a salvage yard in PA. Having never done body work I bought some basic body hammers, dollies and made curved wood blocks to get the hood and nose cone back in shape. I probably have around 20-30 hrs just into straightening those two pieces. To my luck all of three of my orchards had the perforated portion of the hood hacked for upright exhausts at some time. since I had to fix one we did all three hoods at the same time. Repair patches were cut, welded in and the drilled with a jig. Not perfect but good enough. Also had to patch the side and fix/replace the torn out fuel cover nut on the OS6 hood. Since we fixed the OS4 hood I had to make a new and proper exhaust for it.
  9. They had what I would consider a sizeable fruit farm up until the 70’s when it was sold. I’m not sure acerage wise how big it was. This OS6 is a 51’ so it came with the disc brakes that relplaced the drums starting in late 49’ and 50’. When you get your O4 back post some pictures that wold be pretty neat to see.
  10. After the engine transplant and clutch rebuild we added new plugs, wires, hoses, etc and reassembled all the necessary bits and pieces to fire it up and drive it around. Again we were surprised how well the donor engine ran. After a few laps around the yard it was apparent something in the transmission wasn’t too happy with a grinding noise when in reverse. Back in the barn it went. Transmission cover came off to reveal badly worn shifter forks, at least this was an easy fix with parts on hand. While in the transmission it was completely flushed and cleaned of the 60+ years worth of sludge. All gears, bearings and seals were in good shape. Tear down continued with the radiator headed for repairs, swapping the badly dented oil pan, building a new steering rod, freeing up the rear hubs and a ton of other items. The chassis was pressure washed wire wheeled, scrapped, sanded and so on to remove all the rust and accumulations from its working life. Anything that would fit in the sandblaster was blasted. The old engine was disassembled to salvage any good parts before heading to the scrap yard. This also revealed one of the unique identifiers confirming this was my grandfathers tractor, the welded cam gear. This repair was done before grandfather sold the tractor and he informed the buyer of its condition. The tractor was run like this for the remainder of its working life without issue.
  11. A few days after It came home we swapped places in the barn and the ODS6 project moved out so the OS6 could go in and the tear down began. As suspected when I went to look at it the engine would be a total loss thanks to water/ice in the cylinders destroying the block. Again one of my uncles pointed me in the direction of some potential parts. I was able to strike a deal on a Parts O6 and and ODS6. While in the process of retrieving the parts tractors I also convinced myself that I needed and OS4, so that came home too, luckily it only needs some minor fixes and it was off and driving in no time. A few days later and to my absolute amazement, some gas and points, we had the donor engine running in the parts O6. I opted to go for the direct approach and did a complete swap from the donor O6 into the OS6. During the swap we had to rebuild the clutch with pieces coming from all of the parts tractors to make one good one including making all new bushings. I will post the pictures in order of the narrative.
  12. I’ve held off starting this topic untill I was further along with the OS6 restoration because I knew it was going to take me a while. Now that the temps are in the single and headed for negative digits it seems like a good time. So this all started in July of 2015. After some casual conversations with my uncles, we were fairly sure we knew the location of the third of my Grandfathers McCormick orchard tractors. They were already fortunate enough to have two of them back. A few phone calls and some leg work and I met up with the owner. He confirmed the location where he purchased the tractor and some other intrinsic details confirming it was my grandfathers. A deal was struck and with help from my uncles it was headed home. After my grandfather sold it in the 70’s, it was used for another 20+ years then parked untill the barn it was in fell down on it. To say it has been well used and the weather has taken its toll is an understatement. This first round of pics is where it was resting and brining it home. As time and my 2 year old allow I will continue to post the last two years of progress, hopefully it will be finished by this spring.
  13. Repair / Restoration strategy recommendations?

    I wold suggest getting all of the mechanical repairs out of the way first and verify the are sound then worry about looking good. Nothing worse than spending the time on a good paint job just to muck it up. As you can see in the following pictures I thought I was done with mechanical repairs only to find out with one week old paint that an axle tube gasket was bad. Apparently all of the rock hard grease I removed was acting as the gasket. If you have the time and know what you need to repair, go for a repair and restoration in one shot. Just plan on finding more than expected with these old girls.
  14. I/H TD-6 Engine weight

    Have to agree with oleman and MCC. The head alone is 120+ lbs and I believe the injection pump is 100+ lbs alone as well. I recently lifted a "6" series diesel without the head installed and had to use the 1/2 ton reach on the cherry picker. It lifted it, but we had to be careful, the cherry picker arm was bowing pretty good. You may be within the weight limit of a snowmobile trailer but I would at least use some cribbing to spread the weight over the plywood.
  15. Here is a stupid question but...

    Ok, so I have not been in the NAVY but worked in the Nuclear industry for almost 10 years, including some projects on the new "flat tops". It would be my .02 that the figures are not reported correctly. 2.8 gigawatts is equivalent to 2800 megawatts, or for perspective the equivalent of one of the largest US commercial Nuclear power plants in the US. Pretty much every aspect related to power generation out of submarines is classified so I'm sure some expert provided the figures. The operation of new NAVY ships is highly reliant on electrical power, so power distribution is critical. It may be as easy as docking and wiring the ship to the grid just like your house. Highly simplified example of course.