gwoswald

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About gwoswald

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  1. How far would you drive a tractor home

    My wife and I drove our 766 home about 80 miles. We each did a 2-3 hour stint. Wasn't bad at all. Then last year I tried driving a 544 utility home about 150 miles. Made it over half way and the front tire delaminated. Now that was just my fault, because the tires looked the crap and I decided to go anyway. My wife teases me because the only tractor we traveled home from the get go, was 5 miles away. But that one needs some engine work.
  2. Spring trip subsoiler

    Yeah, it stays wet in the spring and has surface water in areas after any significant rain. I was thinking that either a renovator or subsoiling could help.
  3. Spring trip subsoiler

    Thanks. So it looks like a three shank is my best bet. Then it can be taken down to 1 shank. I have concerns whether i could reliably pull two with the 766 without weighting up and worrying about the rear end.
  4. Spring trip subsoiler

    Yeah there are lots of larger rippers that are spring reset, but is there another option besides buying a 3-5 shank ripper and taking all of the shanks off besides one?
  5. Spring trip subsoiler

    Hello all, I am working on improving my hay field. I just have about 40 acres, so nothing large scale. I'm in process of correcting PH, getting fertilizer on the field and seeding in clover. The field has not been worked in many years. Our soil is quite rocky, and has a fair bit of clay. Because of the clay, I'd like to try sub soiling some of it to break up subsoil. Once down about 8", there is a pretty hard pan. I'd like to just use a one shank subsoiler running 16-18" deep. Problem is, I will hit rocks, and I don't want to use 10 lbs of shear bolts per acre. Would like to stick to a one shank so I can pull it with my 766. I haven't seen any one shank spring reset subsoilers, does anyone know of a model or have any ideas about this? I was thinking this may need to be custom made. Possibly, I could make a spring loaded "top link" so I could use an "over the counter" one shank subsoiler? Thoughts? Thanks!
  6. Pulling ripper with 1086

    On brittleness and shear strength, another consideration is shear load vs impact loading. If you put a file in a vise and hit with a hammer, it will behave differently than if you were to put it in a Clevis and carefully hang weights from it. Brittleness will come into play when you hit something. In addition, a grade 8 bolt may be less ductile than grade five, but it's still very tough, and takes a lot of energy to break, vs a file, which is hard, but not tough. Basically, a same sized grade 8 will be harder to break under all circumstances than a grade 5 all other things equal. With regards to file hardness vs bolts, grade 8 bolts are up to 37 HRC while a file is 50+, which is a pretty big difference. I spent 10 years as a failure analysis metallurgist, and engineer, so I've seen a few broken bolts in my day. Great discussion going. I've been looking for a one shank ripper for my 766. And LOTS of rocks to hit.
  7. 30 years ago today it snowed

    Congrats. We celebrated 5 years on the 6th, and I had that exact comment....5 years ago it snowed on the 6th in northern WI.
  8. Got a new one....lined them up

    Yah hey, actually I think it was further south. We're an hour from lake superior.
  9. Got a new one....lined them up

    Thanks, northern Wisconsin here.
  10. Got a new one....lined them up

    It's a 544 utility. Gas ih2000 loader. Need a bigger bucket sometime. Next is a super c with a woods l306. Then it's an H Then the M And the 766D.
  11. Got a new one....lined them up

    Picked up a 42 M today. Pretty nice shape, but it has a stumble when running and might have water leak. Previous owner thinks that the governor spring is weak causing the stumble. Also said the head gasket was replaced after finding some water in the oil, but isn't sure if it was fixed. Rubber is OK, rears have some cracks. Semi recent repaint. Distillate tank still in place. 12 v conversion. Canopy. Got a good enough price on it that even if I had to pull the engine for a new block, it was still worth the buy. Figured it was time for a new group photo, so lined up my red iron collection. None of them are perfect and but they all run well other than the M. Of course about 20 minutes after these pics I blew a steering hose on the 766. Ah well. Thanks all.
  12. Replacing a broken rear wheel clamp bolt

    Looks good. Got it cranked down today. 4 new studs a 3/4" drive socket wrench and a 3' pipe. Looks good to go. Axle tightened right up on wheel with no obvious wear.
  13. Replacing a broken rear wheel clamp bolt

    What I did was first remove the intact nut and stud. Which I had to use a vise grips and booger some threads to do. Then I could tilt the clamp around enough that an 1/8" of the broken one stuck out, and I was able to turn it out with the vise grips. I had to heat the studs a little bit with a propane torch, and then hosed them down with pb blaster. Once both were out the front clamp was free. On the inside clamp I was able to just turn out the intact stud from the nut. The broken one, however, was recessed. So I drilled a hole in it and used the biggest easy out that I had (3/8") which luckily was good enough to spin it out to the point that I got the vise grips on it. After that all four studs where out and the caps come right out. I backed the tractor up so the pressure was on the casting. Not the clamps. My back up plan per the advice above was to sawzall or torch off the broken ones, but didn't end up needing too.
  14. Replacing a broken rear wheel clamp bolt

    I don't think the wheel is as bad as it may look in the photo. The keyway will be well engaged when the bolts are tight. I'll post up a photo in a few days when it's all back together.
  15. Replacing a broken rear wheel clamp bolt

    Well got then all out without taking the tire off. Vise grips and easy out on the inside bolt. Looks like I'll need 4 new ones. Both intact bolts are bent. So now just waiting on new ones. Thanks again!