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About acbjohn

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/28/1969

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  • Location
    Horseheads, NY
  • Interests
    Antique tractors and gas engines

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  1. Torque1, Nice looking machine. Mine is gas also. Engine parts (if you need them) are readily available, however, pistons get pricy. Mine is pretty worn (.010" over), but I'm running stock pistons and new rings...down a little on HP but it gets the job done! I agree with you on the gears...5th would shake your teeth out unless you had Coyote's track pads (IIRC he has a set) or you were running in sand. Your hydraulic tank is a bit of a mystery. The transmission/bevel gear housings are the reservoir for the hydraulic system. Unless someone added an accessory with a large volume demand, I'm not sure why you would need another oil supply. Manuals help a lot...but so do the good people here!
  2. The hydraulic reservoir on my 500 gas is the transmission. Fill through the plug in the top (3/4" NPT) of the transmission. Mine has a steel baffle and I fill it just over that (~1" below the hole). No dipstick on mine.

  4. IH500 Blade edge

    Mine was made by Evolution Edges locally. They are 1085 steel and not heat treated. I pulled some strings with our local heat treating house and they brought them up to 38 HRc. The center had to be 2 pieces to fit in their furnace. I left the end bits square so they could be flipped (50 years from now)!
  5. IH500 Blade edge

    Before and after. Since these are NLA, my local edge manufacturer customer made them and I had them heat treated.

    The order of components is pretty critical...and if someone didn't put it back together correctly, how would you have known when you took it apart? Good catch! ...and good luck. As a side note, I'm still not happy with my brake adjustment. It is not to the "book", but it's the only way I can get it to function correctly in forward. However, after a couple of hours, the braking fades going forward. I will keep playing with things and if I come up with a solution (more band movement with the steering handle), I will let you all know. My goal is to change the mechanism geometry at the brake band. If it works, at least Coyotecrossing and I will have machines that work equally well in forward and reverse!
  7. Looking for advice on a 500C

    General Gear in ID may have a parts machine, or check Big Iron Parts in OH. I made a profiling tool to turn the ball end from a parting tool held on its side. Instead of hex stock I used round and welded a nut on so there were wrench flats. If/when they fail, my theory is it is due to the steering clutches being bound up and not releasing. You can put a lot of force on them with the levers trying to disengage the steering clutches.
  8. Looking for advice on a 500C

    If the links are the same as the straight 500, I made mine.

    I bought brass wire impregnated, woven material from McMaster Carr. It came the correct width and cut it to length. Got the brass rivets from them also. I honestly don't remember if I got 5/16 or 3/8, but I was thinking along the same lines as you...thicker will give you more wear. There certainly is enough adjustment to accommodate either thickness. The trickiest part was getting my drill press adjusted to get the correct counter bore depth for the rivet heads. I used my bands as a template and clamped everything together around the clutch housing. Then drilled my holes in the friction material, disassembled and c'bored the inside for the rivets. Be sure you (or they) use brass rivets and you don't want the rivet heads to wear into the casting as the lining wears.

    In my last post, I was referring to ITEM 29 in the image below.

    While you have it apart, closely inspect the lug in the bottom of the housing that the brake band is positioned on. When I did mine, I now believe they were worn...possibly with a taper on one side instead of being a round post with a flat end. I think (I may be wrong) that this is an insert that is bolted into the clutch housing near the drain hole. The reason I bring this up is Coyotecrossing has the opposite steering issue that I do, in that mine steers perfectly in reverse and his only in forward. Sunday I readjusted my clutches and brakes exactly per the manual...Mine now steers perfectly in forward...BUT WILL NOT BACK UP...the brakes are applying on their own in reverse. ...back the brake band theory is that if it is tapered on the end, as the band contracts, it will ride on the taper and wedge the brakes. If I back off my brake adjustment, I feel that I will be right back where I started. The only other way around this is to change the geometry of the linkage so that the same lever movement causes greater brake band contraction. One more thing, be sure there is little to no slop between the clutch fork shaft and the bushing in the bevel drive housing. If you have fore-aft movement you may not get enough rotation to properly release the clutches before the brake applies...or you will run out of adjustment in the expanding link between the lever and the pivot. Bottom line, make sure all the components for clutch/brake actuation are as close to new as possible.
  12. IH 500E w/ D155

    What a bummer! Had the same thing happen with sleeves in an Allis Chalmers engine. There was a small chip in the block from removal of the old sleeves. I used a hand-held deburring tool (rotoburr) and put a slight chamfer on the upper edge to help guide the o-rings. This will be a trailer queen like my tractors? Knowing how much time and effort goes into prep and paint, you won't want to get her dirty! Nice work!
  13. TD15-C powershift popping noise

    I watched a 15 do the very same thing. It was hard to pinpoint. It only happened with the right track downhill. There wasn't enough track tension and the sprocket would climb the rail then drop back into place. It started chipping the outside edges of the sprocket. Look there first. After another 12 hours, I blew the tensioner seal running the machine myself. The seal lip was compromised, and would hold grease, but as you started working the machine, it would bleed some grease out and lose just a little tension. It has worked perfectly since replacing the seal...and it's a heck of a project for a $45 seal kit!