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About acbjohn

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/28/1969

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  • Location
    Horseheads, NY
  • Interests
    Antique tractors and gas engines

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  1. 500 steering clutches

    Kurly, My parts manual shows 2 different configurations. In the steering clutch housing they show a rectangular plate with the anchor pin with bolts through from the underside. A few pages later, the final drive support shows the pin as part of it. Since the pin provides the lateral support, and is a pilot fit into the steering clutch housing, it's tough to remove. There are shim washers between the support plate and the final drive housing. Assembly should be easier since everything is cleaned up. Now I just have to remove the 3 5/16" bolts that twisted off.
  2. 500 steering clutches

    I added to the length (1/8"?) and will check fit and grind if they are too long. I would like them to extend into the lining about 1/2 of its thickness. As the lining wears, the brake band will move closer to the tip of the anchor pin. NYS muzzleloader season ends Tuesday, so I'll be in the woods this weekend. I'll provide more updates early next week.
  3. 4 years ago I revived a 500 from a near-certain trip the scrap yard. A couple of hundred hours later and $70,000 savings on a driveway (as-quoted), I've got some down-time and want to see if I can improve the steering. The brake band anchor pins were worn and had significant erosion from the chemical attack of mouse urine. The brake linings show virtually no wear, so I'm confident that if I get this right I won't be back in there unless it of for minor adjustments. Mine always steered well in reverse, others have commented that theirs steer well forward. Wouldn't BOTH directions be nice?! I have a theory that the wear on the anchor pins was causing my brake bands to wedge in reverse, giving me good control. With little or no wear on the brake lining, I believe I either need the bands tighter to start, or after clutch release, a quicker actuation of the brake by changing the mechanism geometry. I've welded up the pins and they will be hand-ground to the finished diameter and length. This is a great little machine...if it only steered better...more to follow. Below are the before/after pictures of the anchor pins.
  4. Torque1, Nice looking machine. Mine is gas also. Engine parts (if you need them) are readily available, however, pistons get pricy. Mine is pretty worn (.010" over), but I'm running stock pistons and new rings...down a little on HP but it gets the job done! I agree with you on the gears...5th would shake your teeth out unless you had Coyote's track pads (IIRC he has a set) or you were running in sand. Your hydraulic tank is a bit of a mystery. The transmission/bevel gear housings are the reservoir for the hydraulic system. Unless someone added an accessory with a large volume demand, I'm not sure why you would need another oil supply. Manuals help a lot...but so do the good people here!
  5. The hydraulic reservoir on my 500 gas is the transmission. Fill through the plug in the top (3/4" NPT) of the transmission. Mine has a steel baffle and I fill it just over that (~1" below the hole). No dipstick on mine.
  6. IH500 Blade edge

    Mine was made by Evolution Edges locally. They are 1085 steel and not heat treated. I pulled some strings with our local heat treating house and they brought them up to 38 HRc. The center had to be 2 pieces to fit in their furnace. I left the end bits square so they could be flipped (50 years from now)!
  7. IH500 Blade edge

    Before and after. Since these are NLA, my local edge manufacturer customer made them and I had them heat treated.

    The order of components is pretty critical...and if someone didn't put it back together correctly, how would you have known when you took it apart? Good catch! ...and good luck. As a side note, I'm still not happy with my brake adjustment. It is not to the "book", but it's the only way I can get it to function correctly in forward. However, after a couple of hours, the braking fades going forward. I will keep playing with things and if I come up with a solution (more band movement with the steering handle), I will let you all know. My goal is to change the mechanism geometry at the brake band. If it works, at least Coyotecrossing and I will have machines that work equally well in forward and reverse!
  9. Looking for advice on a 500C

    General Gear in ID may have a parts machine, or check Big Iron Parts in OH. I made a profiling tool to turn the ball end from a parting tool held on its side. Instead of hex stock I used round and welded a nut on so there were wrench flats. If/when they fail, my theory is it is due to the steering clutches being bound up and not releasing. You can put a lot of force on them with the levers trying to disengage the steering clutches.
  10. Looking for advice on a 500C

    If the links are the same as the straight 500, I made mine.

    I bought brass wire impregnated, woven material from McMaster Carr. It came the correct width and cut it to length. Got the brass rivets from them also. I honestly don't remember if I got 5/16 or 3/8, but I was thinking along the same lines as you...thicker will give you more wear. There certainly is enough adjustment to accommodate either thickness. The trickiest part was getting my drill press adjusted to get the correct counter bore depth for the rivet heads. I used my bands as a template and clamped everything together around the clutch housing. Then drilled my holes in the friction material, disassembled and c'bored the inside for the rivets. Be sure you (or they) use brass rivets and you don't want the rivet heads to wear into the casting as the lining wears.

    In my last post, I was referring to ITEM 29 in the image below.