Alex uk

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About Alex uk

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/07/1967

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  • Location
    Denstone England
  • Interests
    Tractor tech all my life.

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  1. Hydro 84

    Very nice. I done a lot on Hydro 74/84's Seen a fwa before. Always seemed odd IH did not offer the option in the UK where the tractor was built ? The Z-F axle is worry free next to the Kimco. Get it in some deep mud pulling it must use every last HP the tractor has!
  2. '44 Farmall H

    There was thread a while back about the correct gauge , did you start it? Be good to see how it looks, I am looking for the correct style gauges for my '44 Lease -lend M over here in England .with the round style IHC. As said just play steady while the adaptor , heat may help , heat around the plug not the plug itself.
  3. CaseIH 85 - 95 Series Tractors.

    To add to the park brake update , the 74 and 84 tractors never had the best park brake. When they modified the transmission in 1987 with the center drive fwa the changed the park brake for the better , though the lever is still a real stretch to use.Made some updates to the T-A and fwa hydraulic control too , the T-A is sharper which is good/bad guess which you like? The worst detail about that year upgrades were the front bonnet and side covers, went from metal to plastic/fiberglass , the side panels can fall off and the hood front can soon get damaged.
  4. preparing to paint the W-4

    Just looking through the daily threads. I am no expert painter , but have done a good few tractor over the time. All I will say it good to use red oxide as a base layer , but I'd give in a coat of either light gray or the buff/yellow primer you see before you put on the IH red. 2 reasons, it makes seeing how the reds going on better , and the red will look brighter and sharper when finished . Sure more guys will chime in , just my 2 cents.
  5. pto ? 784 series

    The PTO on the '84 tractors does stop once you move the lever pretty soon. I know how the Ford works , they have the band around the PTO hub , and yes the Ford will be a sharp with lightweight loading. The IH will soon stop dead also , works on a different idea by having the piston return springs clamp the base back tight and a lug on (No 28) this hits another lug on the rear casing , there is a little more give this way. But what you can do , I do sometimes when having something without a overun , is to just hold the lever off the stop a little , this leaves a little pressure in the piston letting you control it better, just the same as starting off the IH is very good to control , you can just feather in the lever, thats what the little step is for on the side console . The Ford lever is more on/off with a detent. Most hay machines have an overun on them that I have seen though. Seen the pic I had in my bucket yesterday so thought I'd add it just for your interest. Alex.
  6. Hydro 84 filter locations and dipstick

    You may have already done the job by now, but its your call. I would go to the effort to remove the flow and fill the front trans , esp. if it has sat and drained for a day or so. The front section has a stack pipe idea to put it one way so the front part always stays full to the top all the time the tractor is running , then the excess runs back to the rear. The oil gets to the front part from excess oil from the hydraulic circuits in the rear half, so when you do a full fluid change the tractor will have to run a while while to bleeds the air out of all the systems and starts filling up the front part . Any guy on this forum will tell you running any hydrostatic either a tractor or combine with no oil in the hydro is bad. Repairing these IH Hydros is £££ if you can find the parts. This is Hydro charge pump of the tractor on the baler , we spent alot of money rebuilding after this, down to ware and tare , though running dry may cause this. This what's under the hydro top plate, you only need to undo the filler plug. Its a cab off job to remove this far. Those are the swash plate servos you can see , the tube in the right hand corner is the stack pipe that keeps the front section full of oil. Lower down you can see the piston of both e pump and the motor. Alex. Oh the dates are incorrect on the pictures, we rebuilt the Hydro 2007, it still in daily use 10 years on.
  7. Hydro 84 filter locations and dipstick

    Here is my old hydro from a few years ago The roof has since been fixed , its still a working tractor . Oh this tractor hydro trans has been apart , it almost met its end when the hydro charge pump fell apart in 2005, but after much help from a few guys on the forum and some parts from the USA its still running today. Alex.
  8. Hydro 84 filter locations and dipstick

    Taking a look through some of my old pics, IH studio shot of H85 with Sekura cab While in the same folder and talking about Sekura cabs found this , IH did import a few 966 to to England and due to cab regulations had to fit a ROPS . They fitted the Dutch made Sekura cab to a 966 for a few years.There are still a few of these tractors . Alex.
  9. Hydro 84 filter locations and dipstick

    HI Van diesel. I see you sent me a PM , I have been away on holiday to France for a while. Just for the other guys on here , I know some of the Canadian guys will know , but the tractor is a Doncaster built Hydro 84 fitted with the optional Sekura flat deck cab. I have 2 of these tractors many ,many hours far better cab to drive than the low slug factory cab. I'll put my bit of info in for you now. First about the filter by-pass screens , the main filter you have off already has a 1/2" hole in the center for the fixing bolt, the hydro screen does not , thats the best way to tell. Next to draining all the old oil , you have drained some of the oil out off the 2 plugs you have shown, but there will still be maybe 15 litres under the rear axle, look under the r/h side rear axle and see where the return hose for the loader valve block screws in , take out the hose and the adaptor plug , there will be more old oil in there. Once all the oil is drained you can remove the hydro filter without worring about losing to much good oil. You are correct the filter is behind the plate you have marked , remove the 7 bolts and remove the teardrop shaped cast cover , the filter just sits in there. You may have to get or make a new gasket, you can reuse if its not ripped , just be careful if you use gasket sealer , don't really want any sealer getting into the hydro. Fit the new filters, I only use genuine CNH on hydros , and still fit the original style paper ones not the later metal style like on the '95 series . When you refit the main hyd filter make sure you don't twist the large O ring .It will cause lots of air problems if you do. As for refilling with oil I would go by the book, its a real pain on a Sekura cab but I still do it to save the hydro. You will have to remove the cab floor !! So depending on how tidy the cab still is here's how. Remove the 2 black strips that hold the floor mats in, remove the floor mats , in 3 parts have to work the r/h over the foot throttle, ove the mats (and the old dust dirt! are all out) there are 4 bolts 2 each side near the fenders that hold the floor plate in . Then go under the r/h side and remove the diff lock pedal, i undo the 17mm locknut and unwind the pedal from the ball joint , now lift the r/h side a little and see under the foot throttle linkage , remove the little spring clip that fixe's to the rod. With the playing around the floor plate will come out . I do also sometime take off the lower black dash cover to help to. You will then see the top of the hydro trans and the filler plug as in the picture already posted . You can then fit all the drain bungs and fill with oil, put a least 20 litres through the hydro fill plug, the rest can go in the large square plug above the rear linkage behind the cab. The dipstick on your tractor is at the rear of the tractor just to the left of the rear filler plug, just under the main cab frame . Once full of oil start the tractor and let it idle for a a few minuets , then try and lightly turn the steering left and right . See how you go it may take a while to get the steering to work again. If not stop the engine and retry a few times , if no joy get back to us and will tell you a few other ways to get it to work. Try the drive and see how it goes also.. Sorry to add this bit , you can't have used the tractor much , as the 'black box' you show us and the filler is the main fuel tank and filler. You don't want to be putting Hy-Tran in here! see how you go the the hydro drive , while you have the cab floor out I'd have a look at the hydro linkage , they do ware and you can remove alot of the slack with a little work, it will drive faster and feel better to use . Also worth checking the Foot- inch valve setting sometime , its a favorite place to loose drive pressure. Thats for another day. Hope this all helps. Alex.
  10. Steel Wheels

    Looking at your user name I guess you are from Nebraska ? I am looking out for a set of front steels for a W6 for a friend, sure M ones are the same . You are just to far from me , unless you know anyone who fills containers for the UK or Europe. But yes I'd let them sit in a fence row rather them melt them down , one day they will have there day.
  11. Part ID - top of engine

    You are correct, its the air cleaner blockage sensor , there should be a little plastic pipe going to the from part of the air cleaner just where the formed rubber hose comes out and goes to the the manifold. Looking at the second picture , what's that rod or pipe laying across the rocker cover towards the front of the engine?? The only thing I can think of is one of the battery clamp rods that has taken a walk over the top of the engine.
  12. hydro 84 clicking noise from below my feet

    Hi . Welcome to the forum. Sounds to me a little more info is required. At least if the engine is lugging down the hydro must be still good! Does the noise speed up/down with the engine or when you drive forward faster/slower? So if the tractor is parked and you rev up the engine does the noise still happen? if so its got to be an engine issue, sounds a little more than a blocked fuel filter! Tough a good service is always good to do. You say it blows out of the breather , the pipe close to the dipstick,when you speed up the engine , does the noise stay the same , or once at say 1600 drop a little , then once you drop the throttle come back again until idle/ That could be very bad! Sounds like an internal engine fault. If the engine sounds fine and the noise comes on when driving does it increase as the wheel speed increases? The outer rear wheel bearing can sometimes fail , they can make a clicking sound and rumble at random as the wheel turns . Just listen close to the rear wheels as you drive , or jack up and see for play. Of course odd sounds could come for almost anywhere, the the hydro trans would not make many mechanical noises , the rear trans is usally pretty good also.. The flywheel damper plate on hydros can/do fail , but again its usally good or broke, so no drive. You say you are using it on a topper , if its heavy going or on hills H84 hasn't got untold amounts of power and most heavier work ought to be down in low range transmission to help the hydro along . Better to run in low range with the hydro lever well forward , than in high and the lever just forward. i'd be double checking the engine before I went to far ! Drain the oil and look close for debris if unsure and if you can get hold of a 0-50 psi gauge check the oil pressure also. Keep us updated, once you get the tractor in good order they make great light field work and yard tractors. Oh where are you from also and does the tractor have a cab or open platform. Alex.
  13. Cub????

    Well done Frank. Remind me of a Farmall H I once brought. kept me busy for a long time piecing it back together. Pretty sure the ignition parts are different from the US . They will be French made, ask a few old car guys who like the French cars ,I bet the rotor and points , and so on will X-ref . Alex.
  14. Happy Birthday

    Yes big milestone today , the big 50. Spent this am at work as normal , then this afternoon spent the rest breaking up some concreate with a sledge and iron bar .I am having the new wiring at my new garage/workshop at home done , and the guys wanted to place the power cable underground , but in a different place than planned , so had only a 9" grinder to cut a slot , then has to hand work it out. Best part of 4 inch think in places , only around 8 foot run , but it made me sweat some. Ready for that beer later now! Happy Birthday to all the other guys today.
  15. is it possible to make a 2wd 884 into a 4wd 884?

    IH Kiwi sums up pretty much. First BIG job would be to remove the main pinion shaft , which includes both rear axles off,brakes out ,hyd top cover off ,handbrake out,rear diff out ,then the pinion, you can use same pinion with the Kimco gear on. just got to re fit it all and set up the diff if you change any parts. The side drive box would be next , the prop shafts are getting hard to find and from memory have some odd size cross joints . Then the fwa front bolster, new front grill and side panels . Then the axle ,with the wheels and possibly new tires, as also said you will have to match the ratios , all the 884 FWA I have seen use the BR ratio transmission. After all that work you only have a second rate axle , it would be alot easier to find a later 885/4230 new tractor with a Z-F set up.