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Farmall M Drawbar For Pulling


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#21 Mpower29

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 06:29 PM

Got everything together tonight, still need some fine tuning tomorow and then i will post some pictures of what i did, not pulling again til the fifteenth so i wont know how everything worked until then.



#22 660 driver

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 06:39 PM

Its not nearly as big a problem at 3 miles an hour but I do get what your saying as far as keeping it straight down the track. I usually let the tractor almost find its own way as long as its not heading for an obvious bad spot. Tapping the brakes is a lst resort at the end of your pull.
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#23 CardaleBob

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 07:16 PM

Hi:  I am not a tractor pulling expert, but I do know a bit of basic physics.  The point of your pulling pin gives the height from the ground, and the distance from the centre of the rear axle.  It does not matter how you get to this hitch point.  For example, if you weld the swinging drawbar solidly to the "hoop" drawbar, and then remove the front pivot pin from the swinging drawbar, will the tractor pull any differently?  CardaleBob.


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#24 dmulhall

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 02:58 PM

depends how long the chain is on the sled...

 

slightly better angle to get better traction at the rear tires...more weight on the back tires



#25 dmulhall

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 03:05 PM

I know it doesnt make sense....but pull both ways and you can feel the difference



#26 M Diesel

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 03:49 PM

Hi:  I am not a tractor pulling expert, but I do know a bit of basic physics.  The point of your pulling pin gives the height from the ground, and the distance from the centre of the rear axle.  It does not matter how you get to this hitch point.  For example, if you weld the swinging drawbar solidly to the "hoop" drawbar, and then remove the front pivot pin from the swinging drawbar, will the tractor pull any differently?  CardaleBob.


I was thinking that at first, but technically they are not the same. Since the bar can slide on the hoop, it does exert some pull from the forward attachment point. The geometry gets a bit complicated.
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1964 Loadstar 1600 -- 1975 Loadstar 1700 dump truck
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#27 660 driver

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 05:48 PM

I have pulled probably 10 different sleds of all different styles and cardale you are right about using the swinging drawbar and removing the pin at the pivot point under the belly of the tractor....same concept as our pulling hitch. I have had good results on ALL of the sleds I have pulled using this pulling hitch we made. To me it is the cheapest easiest way to be successful on a Farmstock tractor! Keeps the tractor almost 100% stock hitch wise.


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#28 Scott!

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 06:14 PM

 

Hi:  I am not a tractor pulling expert, but I do know a bit of basic physics.  The point of your pulling pin gives the height from the ground, and the distance from the centre of the rear axle.  It does not matter how you get to this hitch point.  For example, if you weld the swinging drawbar solidly to the "hoop" drawbar, and then remove the front pivot pin from the swinging drawbar, will the tractor pull any differently?  CardaleBob.


I was thinking that at first, but technically they are not the same. Since the bar can slide on the hoop, it does exert some pull from the forward attachment point. The geometry gets a bit complicated.

 

 

What if you bolted it solid so it didn't move?  (or if you use it like 99% of us and lock it in place with a couple bolts)


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#29 660 driver

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 07:06 PM

 

 

Hi:  I am not a tractor pulling expert, but I do know a bit of basic physics.  The point of your pulling pin gives the height from the ground, and the distance from the centre of the rear axle.  It does not matter how you get to this hitch point.  For example, if you weld the swinging drawbar solidly to the "hoop" drawbar, and then remove the front pivot pin from the swinging drawbar, will the tractor pull any differently?  CardaleBob.


I was thinking that at first, but technically they are not the same. Since the bar can slide on the hoop, it does exert some pull from the forward attachment point. The geometry gets a bit complicated.

 

 

What if you bolted it solid so it didn't move?  (or if you use it like 99% of us and lock it in place with a couple bolts)

 

 

 

It should be the same....haven't tried that yet but as long as it's not pulling from the belly of the tractor it should have the same affect.


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