Jump to content


Photo

Head won't separate from block

W-4 engine block head stuck cylinder head

28 replies to this topic

#1 Roschro

Roschro

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 29 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Posted 18 July 2012 - 12:07 AM

I've begun teardown of my W4 engine but I've hit a huge roadblock to the teardown process. The cylinder head will not budge at all from the block!

I've tried lubricants down the stud holes, I've tried putting the headbolt nuts back on and hitting them with a hammer to get them unstuck, and I've tried hitting it loose with a sledge hammer on a 2x4. It won't move!

If anyone has any ideas I could sure use the help.
1949 McCormick Deering W4

#2 kennymopar

kennymopar

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 208 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:nsw australia

Posted 18 July 2012 - 06:46 AM

compressed air down the injector hole ?

#3 M Diesel

M Diesel

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 8,064 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Olathe KS

Posted 18 July 2012 - 11:53 AM

Usually it is just the gasket stuck bad? A lot of times effort with a soft hammer applied sideways may break it loose, but have seen stuck gaskets require a sharp thin wedge device (think old wood chisels) tapped in at points along the seam. Never concentrate too much in one spot though.

I had a friend of Dads bust my Honda 305 transmission doing that. Gotta make sure ALL the bolts are out.
Gary M
1951 M -- 1951 MD
1953 Super C -- 1957 Farmall 450
1953 TD9 "Ichabod JR" aka "Icky"
1949 TD18 "Brutus" -- 1956 TD18-182 "Yard Dog"
1964 Loadstar 1600 -- 1975 Loadstar 1700 dump truck
1949 Massey 44

#4 Regular

Regular

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 104 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Olathe, KS

Posted 18 July 2012 - 03:49 PM

You will most likely need a good prying action. (Force) Usually there is one spot on an engine you can get creative with a prybar to wedge into. The studs will not let any notable side to side to help break it loose. If you have to use a wedge into the gasket area or even a prybar, be sure the wedge area is as smooth as possible and pick a location that you feel comfortable it can be "dressed" to repair any dings. And there will be a ding at least at the edge. A hammer can help but is only an assist and shock value. Usually breaks more than it fixes if more than a tap is needed.
Oh, and the air pressure in the cylinders as well can't hurt. Though is only about 900 pounds of force per cylinder.

Another avenue might be a puller of sorts. Set a board or plate across the studs for a jack to sit on, put a bar/brace across the jack and connect to the manifolds. Better yet, I would make a plate for the manifold studs so the pull is completely sheer for those bolts.

#5 hagan

hagan

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,815 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Southeast Colorado
  • Interests:grandpas 41 H & my first tractor 63 806sn673 are my prize possessions Farming tractors 96 7210 2wd: 90 7110 MFWD: 92 7140 MFWD: and my 61 560 D is the old pump tractor that is pretty beat up.
    1440 Combine: CaseIH 8590 Baler:MF 9635 rotary windrower with double crimper :dads 63 loadstar 1600 that i haul the first load of crop to elevator with each year

Posted 18 July 2012 - 05:35 PM

when i was a kid my dad had a irrigation well drilled and the welder man out working on the rig had a wisconsin engine that he flooded and dad said to take the plugs out and light a match at the plug holes and he said no he would put some accetelene in the carb and he did and dad had grandpa, hired man and i stand back and he cranked it over about 2 turns and it blew the head, carbuetor and intake off and it went over the fence and landed in the water at the lake about 100 ft away. he waded out and got the parts and threw it in the back of the truck and went to town.
I would not try accetelene but it sure worked good that time

#6 Scott!

Scott!

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,242 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:SE WI

Posted 18 July 2012 - 09:02 PM

How many nuts did you take off?

How are you lifting it?
'49 Farmall MD
'54 Farmall SMTA
'43 Farmall H
'51 McCormick WD-9

#7 MTO

MTO

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 5,455 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Western Pa

Posted 19 July 2012 - 02:19 PM

when i was a kid my dad had a irrigation well drilled and the welder man out working on the rig had a wisconsin engine that he flooded and dad said to take the plugs out and light a match at the plug holes and he said no he would put some accetelene in the carb and he did and dad had grandpa, hired man and i stand back and he cranked it over about 2 turns and it blew the head, carbuetor and intake off and it went over the fence and landed in the water at the lake about 100 ft away. he waded out and got the parts and threw it in the back of the truck and went to town.
I would not try accetelene but it sure worked good that time

OMG! Good thing you DID stand back! That wudda won on Funniest Videos.

#8 tcmtech

tcmtech

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,890 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:A bit south of Minot ND

Posted 20 July 2012 - 12:18 PM

If it was me I would be tempted to close all the valves and make a set of adapters so that a grease gun could be used to fill the center two or outer two cylinders through the injector ports or spark plug holes.

Its a quick and easy way to produce tons of even push force without having any sudden explosion or outburst like air does.

"If you have nothing nice to say find others who feel like you and start a mob! "  ;)  


#9 Martin Thompson

Martin Thompson

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 406 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Southland ,New Zealand
  • Interests:1941 Mccormick Deering Farmall A
    1947 Mccormick Deering W4
    Anything IH

Posted 21 July 2012 - 08:47 PM

Have you managed to remove the studs or are they still in ,they may have rusted in the stud holes.If this is the case you will need to use pentrating oil down the studs and keep tapping them.It may be enough to break them free.If it is just the gasket holding the head it should have broken free with a tap with a block of wood.

#10 ihcscoutman

ihcscoutman

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 614 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Barrhead Alberta

Posted 23 July 2012 - 12:34 PM

There are two studs that go thru sleeves in the head. They are located in the center of the head. If u look real close at the head you can see the two sleeves in the head.
I've had those two studs seize in the head before. If you look on the cnh parts website, it shows the two sleeves, p/n 351972R1.
Run Hard............Run Red
Wood & Co.



Reply to this topic



  



Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: W-4, engine block, head, stuck, cylinder head