Jump to content


Photo

TD15B, will not go forward


22 replies to this topic

#1 grassseed farmer

grassseed farmer

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 14 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Washington State

Posted 16 April 2012 - 07:53 AM

I started out with this post in the general, and was told I should move it here, so here it is.

Hello everybody, Have numerous IH and Case products all the way from H and M's, small tractors 560, 884, 1466, and up to Axial flow combines. Used to run a TD14 for a dozer tractor, but have engine problems. Found a TD15B (serial # 20533) that is in good shape, bought. Loaded it onto a drop deck and it went forward and reverse fine, turned fine. Got it home, unloaded it, moved it off to the side of the drive way on a slight slope, shut it down to get the truck hooked back up. Started dozer up, and would not go forward, goes in reverse just fine 1 and 2nd work fine in reverse. Not sure what is wrong. Checked hydraulic oil on the right rear of the seat (looking forward) , looks like it is below add. I am unsure where to put the hydraulic oil, I notice a tank just to the right of the fuel tank, or do I just put a funnel into the dipstick tube? I hope that adding oil takes care of the forward problem. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

David

#2 farmalldr

farmalldr

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 409 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ridgefield, Washington State

Posted 16 April 2012 - 09:47 AM

Good morning,
The tank to the right of the fuel tank is for the blade only and has nothing to do with the transmission, conv or rear end.
Fill the trans / conv / steering compartment at the long dip stick tube with 10W motor oil and check at idle speed.
good luck
Dennis

#3 grassseed farmer

grassseed farmer

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 14 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Washington State

Posted 16 April 2012 - 07:49 PM

Dennis, Thanks for the information. Why 10 wt instead of hydrualic oil?

David

#4 farmalldr

farmalldr

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 409 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ridgefield, Washington State

Posted 17 April 2012 - 08:57 AM

David,
Guess I can't answer why 10W for sure. Could be back then was availability and price. I'm sure there were not as many oil
options then either. The TD7 and TD8 with similar components called for 'Hi Trans' oil so go figure.
Universal Tractor Fluid would probably be ok too. Maybe your oil supplier can shed some light on what's right.
Seems like it took 30-40 gals for the trans and rear end so if 10W engine oil was cheaper that could be the reason.

If you don't have books for it yet, 'Binderbooks.com' has great reprints. They are in Sherwood, Or which is in the Portland, Or area.

Per your serial number looks like a 1966 model.
Good luck and have fun.
Where in Washington are you?
Dennis

#5 grassseed farmer

grassseed farmer

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 14 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Washington State

Posted 18 April 2012 - 07:32 AM

I will look at binderbooks.com for manuals. I farm at Rockford Washington.

Thanks for the information.

David

#6 grassseed farmer

grassseed farmer

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 14 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Washington State

Posted 01 June 2012 - 10:12 AM

Well I am finally getting back to the TD15B. topped off the oil in the rearend and still does not go forward as it should. It goes forward real slow and if I pull on the steering levers it basically stops. Reverse works really good though. Have not got a service manual for it yet, but the local shop said I could photo what I needed from theirs. I see the three ports under the floof board next to the seat, but can not read which is what. This tractor has what I call a direct linakage from the shift "tower" on the left side to the top of the transmission under right side of the seat. If I pull the batteries out it looks like the linkage works okay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It is just weird that it loaded and unloaded okay. thanks in advance for the help.

David

#7 1566 Jim

1566 Jim

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 93 posts

Posted 01 June 2012 - 04:18 PM

The three test ports under thr floor baords at the steering levers are for trans - main, convertor and lube pressure. main should be 180 - 200 convertor should be 90 - 110 lube should be 15 - 20. check main in neutral as well as in ranges. When is won't move check drive shaft to see if turning. also check the suction strainer under floor panels - is clean out screen to see what is in it to see what is going wrong will find pieces there.

#8 farmalldr

farmalldr

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 409 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ridgefield, Washington State

Posted 01 June 2012 - 07:37 PM

What Jim said is what we need to know first. Should be a clutch pressure gauge on the dash. Main/clutch press. should be somewhere near 200 psi in neutral and all ranges at idle and high idle. May drop some at idle but not much.
The old mechanical linkage was somewhat hard to get adjusted especially if worn joints. With batteries out and using jumper cables you could move the lever on the transmission by itself and make sure it is going into the detents properly while checking pressures.
good luck
Dennis

#9 grassseed farmer

grassseed farmer

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 14 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Washington State

Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:18 AM

Okay, ran pressure gage check this morning. Main pressure 190 in all positions, converter pressure at 110 all positions, and lube about 20 in all positions. The drive line is turning under the floor boards at all times. My clutch pressure gage on the dash has no numbers get the run section in the middle, if this gage is working correctly it reads just outside of the run range on the top side. I have not checked the filters yet, as the tractor is outside and it is raining (I know poor excuse). A question is that the book says full throttle to run the pressures and than also fast idle, what is fast idle? I noticed that when I was doing the pressure test that when in reverse going from 1st to 2nd that I can hear the motor rev just a bit, but can not hear that in forward from 1st to 2nd, which probably makes sense. Upon saying that, when I come out of neutural into forward it does rev up though. I also notice that when I go from neutral to reverse I can feel the tractor/transmission "catch" and do not get that on the forward. What is the next step?

Thanks

#10 farmalldr

farmalldr

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 409 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ridgefield, Washington State

Posted 02 June 2012 - 05:51 PM

Well David, your pressures sound good. Are they close to your readings at idle speeds? Reason being if they are would signify your pump is good and you don't have any excessive internal leakage.
The main pressure gauge should flicker (drop slightly and jump right back up) between shifts. This is the time it takes the oil to fill the clutch pistons.
If the gauge does not do this may mean the oil is not getting to the clutches
Drive Line-- Should not spin with trans. in any gear, even at full throttle provided the hi / lo lever on the right is in hi or lo, steer levers are clear forward and tracks are not allowed to move. How does yours react? It should spin freely in neutral.
With engine shut down do you have a inch or so of free travel on your steering levers? You should have some.
Well lets see what turns up with these tests then go from there
good luck
Dennis



Reply to this topic