Pivot Brake or Steering Clutch Problem
Posted 31 March 2012 - 08:18 PM
I'm thinking all the heavy work and turning may have overheated the left side brakes. I checked the oil level in the final drive housing and it seemed ok. I'll need to back off and remember this machine was made in the late 60's, but it's a bull and really gets the job done. I've been very happy with it.
Anyone had a similar situation. I'm hoping I didn't do any damage. Any advice is welcomed.
(Pic attached - smoke coming from just behind lever to the right)
Posted 31 March 2012 - 08:34 PM
2 they are so worn out a spring rubbed and broke,and being nice and shiney it didn't over center and full lock yet
no big deal other than breaking it all down again and $250 /side
3 lever not set for free travel release sun pad before applying brake....adjust
4 bearing / seal issue what was replaced and was it done by the book and machined back to spec??
Posted 01 April 2012 - 07:47 AM
I'll try adjusting the free travel release in the lever and keep an eye on it...sounds like it's break down time if this doesn't do it. I have a feeling how this is going to go.
Thanks again for your sound advice....
Posted 04 April 2012 - 08:27 PM
First thing is to try the foot pedal free travel adjustment. The book says to adjust for 2 inches of free travel before resistance. I do remember now hearing something rattle about center console, but looking around nothing was evident. Maybe your reference to a broken spring.....I did have a couple of wrenches under the seat and thought that could have been the noise.
If that doesn't work drop the tracks and replace the lft side brakes. I'm not too keen on driving something if there's a chance I could really mess something up. I really want to keep this machine up the best I can.....but that means a trip home, order the brakes, and a trip back ... aside from being a major pain in the butt it may have to be done.
The hot casing and smoke that came out of the brake rod enclosure boot really has me thinking that something is stuck or broken up near the top of the sprocket drive carrier. When the finals "blew up" last fall, the roller bearings (after getting grinded up in the bull and pinion grears) actually busted a hole in the bottom of the sprocket pan and oil was all over the place. Pretty evident what was happening.
This time, I just smelled brake and saw smoke, nothing else. After I stopped and felt the top cover and noticed how hot it was, a big concern was the heat from the brakes somehow distorting the pinion oil seal enough to have a major leak. Before I left I checked and no oil. Everything else looked good.
What do you think the odds are that the adjustment will correct the problem? I replaced the outside brake disk when I re-did the finals. I'm not sure when the brakes were done, but the old disk looked pretty good. It got damaged so I went ahead and replaced it. May be worth the time to just plan on replacing the brakes and anything else to be safe?
Posted 07 April 2012 - 05:03 AM
I've ordered new disks and springs and plan on overhauling in a couple weeks. Anything I'm missing?
Posted 07 April 2012 - 05:51 AM
Budget gets in the way you decide where to stop. there are ( 8 ) wear areas of that brake NOS IH ($22-28)or known quality for the disc's they are shot @ 7/16"
IH non china on actuator $175 if the disc is close to wearing head off spring they are shot.
pinion seal $40 L oring $25-(requires made up puller
now to the time and money
pinion brg if suspect at least check preload (procedure) and pins to correctly reset)
we are this far so....sun disc rebushed
hopefully pinion was ok and gears are still intact
move to opposite side as it needs attention
next obviously $400 for new sun pads.
obviously going this deep dragging into/close to a garage is needed
Posted 21 April 2012 - 07:03 PM
The only difference today ...I was easy on the turns... The day the smoke showed I was "tight" circling quit a bit.
Brakes on order....
Posted 21 April 2012 - 08:03 PM
may get the job done and bring to shop
still leaves wear on the 8 surfaces and a weak/broken spring.worn ball/sockets
you know the job involved consider a new actuator as well,if new disc is close to touching springs they are worn.