Posted 23 March 2012 - 10:26 AM
Posted 23 March 2012 - 10:46 AM
"Rooster" 1066 puller tractor, Soon to be turned back into a farm tractor
"Banty" 666 7000# Puller toy, 312 3-LM Has stuff done to it.
"Emmy Lou" 1939 M , 1939 Farmall H (to be named later)
' F-1206, 2WD 5088 1066 to be restored
2 782 Cadets 1 repowered. CanAm OutlanderMax650
2 Dodge Cummins trucks 2013"Buckweet" and 2004 "Duke"[i][color=#FF0000]
Can am outlander Max, XT Honda ST 1100
Torchmate CNC Plasma cutting table
Posted 23 March 2012 - 11:21 AM
Posted 23 March 2012 - 11:50 AM
Posted 23 March 2012 - 08:58 PM
Far as the light not coming on, you need to put a gauge in that spot where sender goes to see what you actually have. Pressure should be about 20psi and should drop to zero when you put clutch in or just manually pull out the dump valve. It may only be a slow to operate sending unit, but it may actually have pressure with dump valve pulled. I have only seen this one time in my life and it was a badly scored up regulator valve that was letting enough oil into lube circuit so pressure would drop way down when dump valve was pulled out but not to zero. That is a four psi switch so doesn't take much to keep it closed.
I ran into the same problem a couple of times. I ended up using an engine oil pressure sender that was rated for 7 psi to replace the original 4 psi sender..
Posted 24 March 2012 - 08:37 AM
Posted 24 March 2012 - 01:04 PM
Posted 27 March 2012 - 12:55 PM
Posted 27 March 2012 - 01:40 PM
Farming and Fixing, I fix and farm with red stuff, mostly. Usable tractors are 5288, 1466, 1066, 1206, 826, 806, 756, 656, 800 and 950 planters, 4800 field cultivator, plus other misc, and a yellow TR combine. Also an S1700 grain truck. Also a fun '71 Chevelle! And a '40 M to restore when I get time! 966 M&W turbo.