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Resealing cylinders on a Case 580 loader and backhoe

caps are stuck

9 replies to this topic

#1 Mouintainlion

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 01:05 PM

I got two caps loose with a tool I made but broke a grade 8 pin on a tight cap. Anyone got a trick to break the caps loose? I think it is rusted tight. It is about 1974 and one I got loose had been loosened before with a pipe wrench. They are leaking quite a bit so I doubt that I can get penetrating oil to do any work. Ideas?

#2 PML

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 06:16 PM

To bad, most people don't know what never-seize is until it to late. I also have a 580b backhoe if you have the cylinder off you might take a small hammer an peck on the packing gland and try to loosen it if not your back to pipe wrench.I have used a punch and hammer to loosen but it ruins the holes on the packing gland. PL

#3 farmalldr

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 06:54 PM

Mountainlion,
Some cylinder glands have a screw at the seam of the gland to barrel and maybe its broken off to where you cant see it. If so drill it out.
Or maybe your Case cyl doesn't have that. If no keeper of any kind I would try some heat from your torch at the thread area of the barrel. I wouldn't turn it red though. This should not hurt anything. Sounds like the seals are already shot.
Sometimes they are difficult.
good luck
Dennis

#4 Rawleigh99

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 12:52 PM

Make a handle shaped like a big wrench out of scrap and weld it to the cap. Then you can beat on it with a BFH. Cut off the scrap and grind the cap smooth after you have it off. The heat will also help to loosen it. I am assuming that it doesn't have one of those wire type retainers tht is broken off in the housing.
Rawleigh

1973 IH 500C a.k.a."Calico Cat"
1955 Cat D2 5U bulldozer with Hyster D2N winch
1945 Cat D2 3J crawler tractor
1979 Pettibone "Super 6" Forklift a.k.a. "Too Tall"
1973 Ford F600 Dump Truck
1980 Ford F350 Flatbed a.k.a. "Beastie"
1960 Allis Chalmers Model 72 All Crop combine
1966 Case 931 Comfort King Tractor

Sold:

1988 Mack R688ST Road Tractor
1955 IH TD 9 with Drott Loader

#5 150 owner

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 06:18 PM

another 2 cents worth. i too have had this problem on a 580k case and found the simplest solution is to remove the cylinder and take it to a hydraulic shop, i had a boom cylinder even they could not turn with a 4 ft wrench, they then heated it cherry red and plunged it into a bucket of oil for about 2 hours, then took 2 men on a 4 ft wrench to turn it. problem, rust and the locktite they use to put them together. total cost about 175.00 including packing. good luck dan

#6 Mouintainlion

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 06:30 PM

I talked to a guy that had a cylinder on a JD fixed. He said that the ram twisted 1/4 turn while they were taking off the lock nut at the packing. I think I can do the bucket cylinders but the big one are probably too much for me. I am trying to figure out how to modify a chisel to tap the cap loose. I even thought of drilling a hole to the threads and usint penetrating oil. I could tap and plug it whene done. Thanks for the info guys.

#7 mmi

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 05:58 PM

there are man y different wrenchs made to fit, which type of cap 2/4 pins ,2/4tangs, ?
and as mentioned they can be veeery tight

2/4 indents find some heavy wall pipe slightly larger weld some matching tabs about 1" up inside file to a snug fit
tack a plate on top of those. double plate the top with a nice 3/4 drive hole
leave cyl attached to machine/other large device.heat use 4' breaker/air gun if you trust the weld
all manner of axle hub nut tools are similar 4 x 4 etc.

https://www.4wdfacto...-point,OTC-7158

#8 Mouintainlion

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 07:45 PM

MMI I have that very tool. Unfortunatly I have the cylinder rod and knuckle on that end of the cylinder. Rawleig99 has a good idea about welding a wrench to the cap and beat the rust out of it. If it looks too bad I will take it to the hydraulic shop. I took a harrow tooth and ground it a bit and got a few good licks in with a hammer untill it layed over the end. I ground an old chisel to fit the hole but the protrusion split off from the chisel. I think I am smarter than a fifth grader and I hope that I am smarter than rust.

#9 mmi

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 08:08 PM

MMI I have that very tool. Unfortunatly I have the cylinder rod and knuckle on that end of the cylinder. Rawleig99 has a good idea about welding a wrench to the cap and beat the rust out of it. If it looks too bad I will take it to the hydraulic shop. I took a harrow tooth and ground it a bit and got a few good licks in with a hammer untill it layed over the end. I ground an old chisel to fit the hole but the protrusion split off from the chisel. I think I am smarter than a fifth grader and I hope that I am smarter than rust.


ooh right

?? retract the rod , make the pipe a little longer? , (no drawing function on here? ) I keep thinking socket head with handles like commercial pipe threader??

hydraulic shops here charge 95-150% of new on repairs.

5t floor jack (they have the wrench) $700 to rebuild + parts new $655

good luck

#10 Mouintainlion

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 01:40 PM

I found a good supplyer for Case hydraulic parts. Coleman Equipment Inc was on the internet at WWW.colemanequip.com. they had a repair kit for one cylinder for $42.03 including the piston "rings" With a little searching and part numbers I found the high pressure seals for the lift cylinders. I got some Twin Tiger tooth bucket teeth which I called rock teeth. Their seal kit was about $20. Surplus Center has lots of belts and hoses at good prices. WWW.surpluscenter.com.

The tight glands on the cylinders had had set screws in them when new but the cylinders have been rebuilt and the backhoe repainted. The glands were tightened more than 1/4 inch past the set screws that were put in at the factory. No wonder they are tight. I plan to weld my homemaid tool to the gland to take it apart. I think I will put the pins in the holes and tack weld the wrench on. When I get the gland off I will redrill the holes oversize to clean up the holes.


Got a couple seals form Reliable Aftermarket Parts Inc. at WWW.ReliableAftermarketParts.com



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