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turning up a 1066


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#1 Jrod

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 01:19 PM

On a 1066 which way do i turn the fuel screw to add some fuel and how many turns can i go MAX assuming everything is stock right now? Thanks.

#2 SMiller

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 01:33 PM

The screw goes counter clockwise (out) lefty lousy, lol. I would go 3 turns, it should be around 130hp stock and 3 turns should have it about 160hp, which should be around 1100* when working in the field. The water temp will be higher, you need to really watch it and install a pyro, that is the only way to be safe.

When I pull a tractor with the 100 pump I turn the screw all the way out, I take the lock nut off the screw and turn it out so it is seated in the housing. There is another screw down below that one that runs sideways, I turn that one all the way as well. Makes a huge difference. Pull the filter"s" and add 5* timing and it will pull like a freight train!!!

#3 JandM966

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 01:36 PM

On a 1066 which way do i turn the fuel screw to add some fuel and how many turns can i go MAX assuming everything is stock right now? Thanks.









As your standing there facing the pump you would turn the screw towards you(picture it as your standing behind you it would turn left or out to make it longer) This will turn up the pump. If your just turning it up to pull it, turn the screw out until it stops. Thats what I do on my 14 and have even run it down the road that way. I didnt do it long tho as it used about 10 gallons of fuel in 2 miles :wacko:
If your turning it up to use on the farm, I would tune it on a dyno, and install a pyro. Ive heard of alot of 10's turning 170 and used that way, and lasted...
John

Proud member of DILLIGAF pullers assoc.!

If we give up our right to freedom for security, in the end we have niether. (I think its from an NRA bumper sticker)

If its green you either mow it or spend it!
If it aint red leave it in the shed!

"God bless America and the farmer that feeds your fat a$$!" have that on a bumper sticker

Blowing smoke til Im broke, running red til Im dead.

1943 Farmall B,1964 IH 706(future puller), 1974 IH 966 openstation with a Buhler-Allied 795 loader, 1974 IH 1066 with DT466 and 3LM turbo, 1979 IH 1586, 1991 CaseIH 5140 with westendorf WL-42 loader, IH 510 4 bottom plow (BIL's uncle bought it new and only plowed 20 acers and sat in a shed til i bought it!) John Deere 735 MowCo, Hesston 3940 12 wheel hi-capacity wheel rake, 2012 John Deere 468 with netwrap , 1999.5 Ford F-250 XLT extended cab powerstroke diesel!!

Other colors: '68 JD 2510.

Past tractors:'74 IH 1466 Factory Fender tractor, '84 IH 3688, '74 IH 1466 with Cab, '79 IH 1086 with cab, '78 AC 7060 with cab, '65 AC 190xt, '64 Oliver 1800C, '64 Oliver 1600, '60 Oliver 1900, '63 JD 4010, '92 JD 2555 with cab, '64 JD 3020.

#4 Jrod

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 03:47 PM

The screw goes counter clockwise (out) lefty lousy, lol. I would go 3 turns, it should be around 130hp stock and 3 turns should have it about 160hp, which should be around 1100* when working in the field. The water temp will be higher, you need to really watch it and install a pyro, that is the only way to be safe.

When I pull a tractor with the 100 pump I turn the screw all the way out, I take the lock nut off the screw and turn it out so it is seated in the housing. There is another screw down below that one that runs sideways, I turn that one all the way as well. Makes a huge difference. Pull the filter"s" and add 5* timing and it will pull like a freight train!!!





Are you talking about the only other screw under the cap that runs the same direction as the fuel screw and has a jam nut? You say you run that one all the way out as well, what does that one do? I'll be pulling in a 6mph 12,000# class so what gear do you think i will be able to handle? I went ahead and backed the fuel screw out and that already made a world of difference along with the delivery valve cut. The last time ive timed a pump was years ago in diesel class so im a little rusty, how do i advance the timing a little on the 100? I know im asking a lot of questions but thanks for time.

#5 Maynard

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 04:40 PM


The screw goes counter clockwise (out) lefty lousy, lol. I would go 3 turns, it should be around 130hp stock and 3 turns should have it about 160hp, which should be around 1100* when working in the field. The water temp will be higher, you need to really watch it and install a pyro, that is the only way to be safe.

When I pull a tractor with the 100 pump I turn the screw all the way out, I take the lock nut off the screw and turn it out so it is seated in the housing. There is another screw down below that one that runs sideways, I turn that one all the way as well. Makes a huge difference. Pull the filter"s" and add 5* timing and it will pull like a freight train!!!





Are you talking about the only other screw under the cap that runs the same direction as the fuel screw and has a jam nut? You say you run that one all the way out as well, what does that one do? I'll be pulling in a 6mph 12,000# class so what gear do you think i will be able to handle? I went ahead and backed the fuel screw out and that already made a world of difference along with the delivery valve cut. The last time ive timed a pump was years ago in diesel class so im a little rusty, how do i advance the timing a little on the 100? I know im asking a lot of questions but thanks for time.



That screw is the droop screw. Its purpose is to change the leverage of the governor linkage at low rpm's(under full load) and decrease fuel delivery to prevent damage from lugging under full fuel.

Jim N.

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#6 JandM966

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 06:15 PM


The screw goes counter clockwise (out) lefty lousy, lol. I would go 3 turns, it should be around 130hp stock and 3 turns should have it about 160hp, which should be around 1100* when working in the field. The water temp will be higher, you need to really watch it and install a pyro, that is the only way to be safe.

When I pull a tractor with the 100 pump I turn the screw all the way out, I take the lock nut off the screw and turn it out so it is seated in the housing. There is another screw down below that one that runs sideways, I turn that one all the way as well. Makes a huge difference. Pull the filter"s" and add 5* timing and it will pull like a freight train!!!





Are you talking about the only other screw under the cap that runs the same direction as the fuel screw and has a jam nut? You say you run that one all the way out as well, what does that one do? I'll be pulling in a 6mph 12,000# class so what gear do you think i will be able to handle? I went ahead and backed the fuel screw out and that already made a world of difference along with the delivery valve cut. The last time ive timed a pump was years ago in diesel class so im a little rusty, how do i advance the timing a little on the 100? I know im asking a lot of questions but thanks for time.

Im not sure what gear youll want to run in...What size of tires? Are they just 18.4-38's or are they 20.8's? That will make a big difference in what gear you choose. My 14 has 20.8's, and I pull in the 13,000 and over class, without a speed limit rule. I pull high second most of the time, but everyonce in a while I get a wiled hair up my a*s and go to high 3rd, but my clutch isnt stout enough to hold it. Last time I did that it slipped the whole way, so I dont do that anymore. But what Im getting at is H2 is about +/- 12mph. Is your t/a good, or is it a direct drive tractor? Heres a few videos of my 14 in the 13 and over class...
Posted Image
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John

Proud member of DILLIGAF pullers assoc.!

If we give up our right to freedom for security, in the end we have niether. (I think its from an NRA bumper sticker)

If its green you either mow it or spend it!
If it aint red leave it in the shed!

"God bless America and the farmer that feeds your fat a$$!" have that on a bumper sticker

Blowing smoke til Im broke, running red til Im dead.

1943 Farmall B,1964 IH 706(future puller), 1974 IH 966 openstation with a Buhler-Allied 795 loader, 1974 IH 1066 with DT466 and 3LM turbo, 1979 IH 1586, 1991 CaseIH 5140 with westendorf WL-42 loader, IH 510 4 bottom plow (BIL's uncle bought it new and only plowed 20 acers and sat in a shed til i bought it!) John Deere 735 MowCo, Hesston 3940 12 wheel hi-capacity wheel rake, 2012 John Deere 468 with netwrap , 1999.5 Ford F-250 XLT extended cab powerstroke diesel!!

Other colors: '68 JD 2510.

Past tractors:'74 IH 1466 Factory Fender tractor, '84 IH 3688, '74 IH 1466 with Cab, '79 IH 1086 with cab, '78 AC 7060 with cab, '65 AC 190xt, '64 Oliver 1800C, '64 Oliver 1600, '60 Oliver 1900, '63 JD 4010, '92 JD 2555 with cab, '64 JD 3020.

#7 SMiller

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 06:16 PM

The screw runs horizontal (side to side) (going front to rear) and it is under the fuel screw, you want to make the screw level with the plate that it runs in, when you look down there you will see what I mean.

I would only time it +5* if you plan to pull it all summer, if you are going to farm with it I would just give it a few (2*) and leave it there all the time.

Most guys with farm tractor that are just turned up all the way run Low 4th if the sleds heavy or High 1st if its light, air those rears down and let it cleat past the road gear warriors...

#8 Maynard

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 06:50 PM

The screw runs horizontal (side to side) and it is under the fuel screw, you want to make the screw level with the plate that it runs in, when you look down there you will see what I mean.

I would only time it +5* if you plan to pull it all summer, if you are going to farm with it I would just give it a few (2*) and leave it there all the time.

Most guys with farm tractor that are just turned up all the way run Low 4th if the sleds heavy or High 1st if its light, air those rears down and let it cleat past the road gear warriors...


Shawn, are you thinking of the torque cam? The little nose that pushes against the stop plate?

Growing Old Is No Excuse For Growing Up

"Yet people are considered to be "educated" after they have spent so many years in ivy-covered buildings, absorbing the preconceptions that prevail there."
Thomas Sowell


Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you've decided to see beyond the imperfections.

 

"When people get used to preferential treatment, equal treatment seems like discrimination"

Thomas Sowell

 

 


#9 SMiller

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 07:24 PM

Jim I don't know what its called, it's the screw that is in the plate under the fuel screw, you back it out until the plate will move all the way without the screw interfering with plate travel. It is as easy to adjust as the fuel screw, just a little deeper in the pump.


Did you see the movie Tropic Thunder? The line where the guy said what is your side arm (what kind of gun do you have) He says I don't know what it's called, just the sound it makes when it takes a mans life. lol

#10 Owen Aaland

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 02:09 AM

If all you want to do is turn it up for pulling all you have to do is remove the two screws that hold the excess fuel piston to the housing, lift the piston up enough to swing the oil tube out of the way and reinstall the piston back on the housing. Just reverse the procedure to get the oil line connected and you will be back to your original settings.



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