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front crankshaft seal. 1466


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#1 MAGNUM

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Posted 08 April 2010 - 03:12 PM

just wonderin how long does it take to replace the front crankshaft seal on a 1466.do i need to remove the cast grill houseing? an the radiator. approx. hours. mine started leaking pretty good tuesday night, and cant stop now to fix. im the only one that runs it,oils are checked daily.
jeff
i own a restored 1971 1466,one of the first off the line open station,a 1206,open station,#8917. plus restored cub cadet's 86,108,129, and a 1710,(not restored),782 w/3pt an just got a 149 hydraulic lift and 3pt.just got a 1210 w/44" deck
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#2 Nebraska1206

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Posted 08 April 2010 - 03:21 PM

You don't need to remove the grille casting, Jeff. You'll want the fan shroud off, but I can't remember if you'll want the radiator out or not. I just watched the guys in the shop do this, too! :wacko: CRS must be setting in. You'll probably end up taking the oil pump housing off the engine, sometimes those seals don't want to come out of there very easy. So, you might want two oil pump o-rings, p/n 675860C1, in addition to the crank seal.
'66 1206 puller, '67 1206, '67 1256, whats left of another '67 1256 (parts), & 682 Cub Cadet are mine; Dad has a 1066 B.S., 826D, 756D, two 706's w/ D310's, '53 Super M (stage 2), 1640 combine, and a 1650 Cub Cadet. All located in Northeast Nebraska.

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#3 Maynard

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Posted 08 April 2010 - 05:26 PM

You don't have to remove anything but the belts. Radiator and shroud stay in place, except on 1566/86 where the fan shroud is in the way.

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#4 Nebraska1206

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Posted 08 April 2010 - 06:10 PM

You don't have to remove anything but the belts. Radiator and shroud stay in place, except on 1566/86 where the fan shroud is in the way.


1566 is the last tractor I saw this job done on, guess that's why I said take the shroud off.
'66 1206 puller, '67 1206, '67 1256, whats left of another '67 1256 (parts), & 682 Cub Cadet are mine; Dad has a 1066 B.S., 826D, 756D, two 706's w/ D310's, '53 Super M (stage 2), 1640 combine, and a 1650 Cub Cadet. All located in Northeast Nebraska.

"Think Outside The Bun!" - Taco Bell

"Oh, you hate your job, oh my god, why didn't you say so? Ya know, there's a support group for that, it's called Everybody! They meet at the bar!" Drew Carey

TEAM 407: "We don't care about your intake manifold part number!"

Link to my Facebook album of the 1206 puller project

#5 Sparky

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Posted 08 April 2010 - 06:12 PM

You don't have to remove anything but the belts. Radiator and shroud stay in place, except on 1566/86 where the fan shroud is in the way.

I'll agree with just having to remove the belts and the pulley/balancer, but what's different on the 1566/86 that the shroud would be in the way? I've never had a front seal to replace on one of those, so I'm kinda' curious.....really figured they would be just like the 9/10/14's.

Travis
'74 966, '46 H, Two 990 mower conditioners, #15 rake and a #35 behind it, 241 bigroll baler, 560 plow, #37 disc, 19' 45 F.C. and a couple other off breeds. Got a 782 Cub Cadet, also. Not much else, but it keeps me out of trouble!

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#6 Owen Aaland

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Posted 08 April 2010 - 10:28 PM

IH recommendations:

Flat rate time is 2.6 hours.

Procedure 4-100-D

1. Remove: Left front hood; Left side radiator support panel; Fan shroud (slide back); Fan belt; Fan; Left side radiator mounting bolts; Shroud.

2. Working through the left side, remove the oil pump "Body only".

3. Install new seal. Refer to GSS-1427.

4. Reassemble.

As others have said, most of this procedure is not necessary. I would recommend that the entire oil pump be removed to replace the second O-ring and also make sure no dirt gets trapped between the pump plate and front cover. With the proper tools and some experience the job takes about an hour.

Two upgrades were available that should be installed if your engine does not have them. One is a dust plate that bolts onto the damper pulley with the 3/8" bolts. It is used to keep dirt from being blown through the pulley into the seal. The second is a change to the woodruff key in the crankshaft. The standard key can slip while the pulley is being installed. If it does you will crack the pulley. The replacement key is longer. It extends over the crankshaft past the keyway in the shaft. If that key gets pushed out of place it comes out of the shaft rather than just getting turned. Small price to pay compared to a new damper pulley.

#7 toold 77

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 07:54 AM

:D hi it s an easy job ,but i didn,t have a puller so i made one out of hal

just wonderin how long does it take to replace the front crankshaft seal on a 1466.do i need to remove the cast grill houseing? an the radiator. approx. hours. mine started leaking pretty good tuesday night, and cant stop now to fix. im the only one that runs it,oils are checked daily.
jeff

yes it is not a big job i have done several i had to make a puller out of half inch plate & bolts not fancy ,but works . just make cetain no dirt gets in . good luck. toold77

#8 MAGNUM

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 11:45 AM

:D hi it s an easy job ,but i didn,t have a puller so i made one out of hal


just wonderin how long does it take to replace the front crankshaft seal on a 1466.do i need to remove the cast grill houseing? an the radiator. approx. hours. mine started leaking pretty good tuesday night, and cant stop now to fix. im the only one that runs it,oils are checked daily.
jeff

yes it is not a big job i have done several i had to make a puller out of half inch plate & bolts not fancy ,but works . just make cetain no dirt gets in . good luck. toold77

thanks for the info everyone.
i own a restored 1971 1466,one of the first off the line open station,a 1206,open station,#8917. plus restored cub cadet's 86,108,129, and a 1710,(not restored),782 w/3pt an just got a 149 hydraulic lift and 3pt.just got a 1210 w/44" deck
Either make excuses or make an effort and find a way, one makes things better,the other does not.



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