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Adjusting hyd. clutch on 1466


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#1 JandM966

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Posted 08 July 2009 - 05:29 PM

Im needing help on adjusting my hyd clutch on my 1466. We have a pull coming up friday and want to make sure its ready to go. The last pull I pulled a it felt like it was slipping pretty bad, but I havent had it do it since. Ive used it to cut and bale with, with no sign of slippage. When I had it apart to put a t/a in it, I looked at the clutch and looked almost new, so I didnt put one in it. I think it just needs adjusted, but I want to make sure I go about it the right way. TIA!!
John

Proud member of DILLIGAF pullers assoc.!

If we give up our right to freedom for security, in the end we have niether. (I think its from an NRA bumper sticker)

If its green you either mow it or spend it!
If it aint red leave it in the shed!

"God bless America and the farmer that feeds your fat a$$!" have that on a bumper sticker

Blowing smoke til Im broke, running red til Im dead.

1943 Farmall B,1964 IH 706(future puller), 1974 IH 966 openstation with a Buhler-Allied 795 loader, 1974 IH 1066 with DT466 and 3LM turbo, 1979 IH 1586, 1991 CaseIH 5140 with westendorf WL-42 loader, IH 510 4 bottom plow (BIL's uncle bought it new and only plowed 20 acers and sat in a shed til i bought it!) John Deere 735 MowCo, Hesston 3940 12 wheel hi-capacity wheel rake, 2012 John Deere 468 with netwrap , 1999.5 Ford F-250 XLT extended cab powerstroke diesel!!

Other colors: '68 JD 2510.

Past tractors:'74 IH 1466 Factory Fender tractor, '84 IH 3688, '74 IH 1466 with Cab, '79 IH 1086 with cab, '78 AC 7060 with cab, '65 AC 190xt, '64 Oliver 1800C, '64 Oliver 1600, '60 Oliver 1900, '63 JD 4010, '92 JD 2555 with cab, '64 JD 3020.

#2 Sparky

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Posted 08 July 2009 - 08:25 PM

Alright, I had just a little bit of confusion with this several years back, but figured it out for sure.......In fact, although I think that I&T manuals are pretty much useless for anything more than torque specs, (and they are marginal at that!) The I&T manual specifically for a 1466 helped me figure it out.....First of all, the adjustment on the backside of the clutch booster(towards the platform) is where you get your initial freeplay, make sure you have just a bit of 'slop' (for lack of a better word) between the pedal and platform, where the pedal almost is just sloppy for maybe 1/2" at most. The rest of the free play is adjusted on the lower side of the booster, and make dang sure you are feeling freelplay and not the pressure plate overcentering....take the plate off the bottom of the clutch housing if you have to to see if the the t-out bearing is actually contacting the pressure plate..it shouldn't be at all, and should have 1/8" clearance....I have many, many, many tractors that come in here because "the clutch is slipping" but actually the clutch hasn't been adjusted in so long that it's actually almost overcentering the pressure plate and making the clutch slip. If in doubt of how much free play you actually have....take the spring loose from the clutch pedal...If it doesn't fall about 1/2" from the platform, you don't have enough freeplay. Now the rest of the adjustments clutch(on the forward end of the booster), Dump Valve, and Trans Brake comes from Farmall Doc...his method should be written in every manual...it gives more freeplay(which is a good thing) and makes your tractor easier and more enjoyable to drive.....so here it is, and hope this helps.......

Travis

Take it away, Darryn... :lol:

I thought i'd put this here since I seem to type it out often. Not that I mind, but my typing skills are not that great.. hehe. This is a good reference to set up the clutch, TA and trans brake adjustments on all of the '06 through '86 series tractors. I have found that these settings are the best to provide the best performance from these great tractors....don't let anyone tell you that you can't shift them!!
First thing that I do is disregard everything that's written in the service manuals.... Not that they're wrong, but when they are set up right they shift nice up and down through the gears if you "think before you shift" hehe.
Check that when the TA is forward in Direct Drive position that the snap ring is bottomed out on the spool- this is VERY important!
First thing to do is to set up the clutch with extra free play. This is usually to your own liking, but I set them up so that the tractor starts to move when the heel of your boot is still on the floor. This makes it easier to feather the clutch for hitching equipment or moving a few feet in the lineup at at the elevator. Don't make any adjustments on the booster, only on the turnbuckle going on down to the clutch release shaft (which requires a 9/16" wrench to loosen the locking block and a large flat screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw on the '86 series and two 15/16" wrenches on the older models without the booster, or two 3/4' wrenches with a booster). Once you have this adjustment where it is comfortable, make sure that the lube oil tellite is operating on the dash. It should come on when the clutch is pushed all the way down. Adjust the linkage so that when in High range, 3rd gear the light should go out just before the tractor starts to move as you slowly let the clutch out. Now adjust the transmission brake. Run the tractor at idle speed while the speed transmission is in 3'rd gear. Push on the clutch and count 1-2-3- and try to slowly shift to high range. It should go in nicely with only a "clunk" from the gears. Any adjustment tighter than this will make it difficult to shift on-the-go. Try to adjust this accordingly. Remember to break loose the jamb nut before removing the locking pin.... they sometimes require a little persuasion.
I have been setting them up this way for quite some time (and follow the order) and it has worked well. Remember to lube all of the shift linkages on top of the transmission from time to time, and you will have a super nice useable tractor.
Best regards,
Darryn
'74 966, '46 H, Two 990 mower conditioners, #15 rake and a #35 behind it, 241 bigroll baler, 560 plow, #37 disc, 19' 45 F.C. and a couple other off breeds. Got a 782 Cub Cadet, also. Not much else, but it keeps me out of trouble!

Money is NOT the root of all Evil, Lack of money is the root of all Evil...

#3 JandM966

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Posted 08 July 2009 - 08:36 PM

Thank you Travis. This will help me so much!!! I take it this procedure will also work on one with out a hyd assist?
John

Proud member of DILLIGAF pullers assoc.!

If we give up our right to freedom for security, in the end we have niether. (I think its from an NRA bumper sticker)

If its green you either mow it or spend it!
If it aint red leave it in the shed!

"God bless America and the farmer that feeds your fat a$$!" have that on a bumper sticker

Blowing smoke til Im broke, running red til Im dead.

1943 Farmall B,1964 IH 706(future puller), 1974 IH 966 openstation with a Buhler-Allied 795 loader, 1974 IH 1066 with DT466 and 3LM turbo, 1979 IH 1586, 1991 CaseIH 5140 with westendorf WL-42 loader, IH 510 4 bottom plow (BIL's uncle bought it new and only plowed 20 acers and sat in a shed til i bought it!) John Deere 735 MowCo, Hesston 3940 12 wheel hi-capacity wheel rake, 2012 John Deere 468 with netwrap , 1999.5 Ford F-250 XLT extended cab powerstroke diesel!!

Other colors: '68 JD 2510.

Past tractors:'74 IH 1466 Factory Fender tractor, '84 IH 3688, '74 IH 1466 with Cab, '79 IH 1086 with cab, '78 AC 7060 with cab, '65 AC 190xt, '64 Oliver 1800C, '64 Oliver 1600, '60 Oliver 1900, '63 JD 4010, '92 JD 2555 with cab, '64 JD 3020.

#4 Sparky

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Posted 08 July 2009 - 08:41 PM

Not a problem at all....I have Farmall Doc's method printed out and in my IH service manual (and have for a few years!). As far as no Hydraulic Assist...... it's just about as easy as a Chevy pickup and a 4-spd on the free play, just make sure the throw out bearing isn't riding on the pressure plate and the rest is the same from the '06's to the 86's. I'm glad I can be of help. ;)

Travis
'74 966, '46 H, Two 990 mower conditioners, #15 rake and a #35 behind it, 241 bigroll baler, 560 plow, #37 disc, 19' 45 F.C. and a couple other off breeds. Got a 782 Cub Cadet, also. Not much else, but it keeps me out of trouble!

Money is NOT the root of all Evil, Lack of money is the root of all Evil...

#5 Farmall Doctor

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 10:35 AM

Glad I could help too, fellas! :lol:
Darryn

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