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1086 Clutch Adjustment


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#1 Ted(MD)

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Posted 06 June 2007 - 10:47 AM

I have read the forums before but never posted so here goes.

I was hoping to get some help on a 1086 we just bought. Using an IT manual I was going through making sure the clutch and T/A were adjusted properly. I first did the adjustments on the clutch booster, then the clutch free pedal adjustment then the dump valve and last the transmission brake. I adjusted everything to spec as shown in the IT book, that is 1 and 1/8 inch free travel on the clutch and 1 and 1/8 inch between the snap ring and the dump valve body for the t/A. The T/A seems to engage well - snaps right in with positive action. The clutch though is not very smooth. As you release it, it starts to engage and the tractor moves and then suddenly engages fully as you release the clutch. It is not a smooth steady engagement as I would hope it could be. It does not slip but makes a slight whining noise (not very loud) for a second or two after the clutch engages

Does anyone have any suggestions or advice. I have never worked on one like this before and I know these tractors don't have a reputation as a smooth shifting machine but I am hoping that there is a way that the clutch can be a little smoother.

Thanks in Advance,

Ted

#2 rightsaidfred

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Posted 06 June 2007 - 05:27 PM

Try your clutch first with the TA ahead, then with the TA back. If it works better with the TA back,
you may need to re-adjust the TA dump valve.

Unhook the transmission brake completely, then try your clutch. If it engages better, you may need to tweak
the brake adjustment.

Try the clutch at different RPMs and report back.

#3 axial_al

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Posted 06 June 2007 - 08:22 PM

I had a 1086 at one time that was real touchy when engaging the clutch. The fix was a small bracket that bolted between the cab and the clutch pivot linkage. It seemed the cab flex made for erratic clutch engagement. I have no idea if the brackets are available anymore, but I bet you could find one in a salvage yard. Our dealer put one on our 886 when it was new even though it never seemed to be as big a problem on that tractor. Hope this helps.

#4 Maynard

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Posted 07 June 2007 - 03:15 AM

I had a 1086 at one time that was real touchy when engaging the clutch. The fix was a small bracket that bolted between the cab and the clutch pivot linkage. It seemed the cab flex made for erratic clutch engagement. I have no idea if the brackets are available anymore, but I bet you could find one in a salvage yard. Our dealer put one on our 886 when it was new even though it never seemed to be as big a problem on that tractor. Hope this helps.



The clutch pivot update kit is still available.

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#5 Ted(MD)

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Posted 07 June 2007 - 10:22 AM

Thanks for the ideas

I did try it with the transmission brake disconected and it made no differance. I will see if I can notice any differance with the TA in low. I also looked up the clutch pivot update. I think I found it as part number 77744C91 in the online parts book as a package called the "clutch lever pivot bracket." It doesn't show a picture of that package so I am not sure what it looks like. I have a red stripe model. Would that already have this update?

#6 Farmall Doctor

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Posted 07 June 2007 - 08:22 PM

Congrats on buying a 1086!! You have one of the best pulling, and easiest to work on tractors ever built. Nothing runs quite as nice as a DT 414!! :D I'll throw my 2 cents in here, since I am the usual "go to guy' on '86 series tractors. :blush:
First thing that I do is disregard everything that's written in the service manuals.... :P Not that they're wrong, but when they are set up right they shift nice up and down through the gears if you "think before you shift" hehe.
Check that when the TA is forward in Direct Drive position that the snap ring is bottomed out on the spool- this is VERY important!
First thing to do is to set up the clutch with extra free play. This is usually to your own liking, but I set them up so that the tractor starts to move when the heel of your boot is still on the floor. This makes it easier to feather the clutch for hitching equipment or moving a few feet in the lineup at at the elevator. Don't make any adjustments on the booster, only on the turnbuckle going on down to the clutch release shaft (which requires a 9/16" wrench to loosen the locking block and a large flat screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw). Once you have this adjustment where it is comfortable, make sure that the lube oil tellite is operating on the dash. It should come on when the clutch is pushed all the way down. Adjust the linkage so that when in High range, 3rd gear the light should go out before the tractor starts to move as you slowly let the clutch out. Now adjust the transmission brake. Run the tractor at idle speed while the speed transmission is in 3'rd gear. Push on the clutch and count 1-2-3- and try to slowly shift to high range. It should go in nicely with only a "clunk" from the gears. Try to adjust this accordingly. Remember to break loose the jamb nut before removing the locking pin.... they sometimes require a little persuasion.
I have been setting them up this way for quite some time (and follow the order) and it has worked well. Remember to lube all of the shift linkages on top of the transmission from time to time, and you will have a super nice useable tractor.
Best regards,
Darryn B)

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#7 Ted(MD)

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Posted 09 June 2007 - 07:56 PM

Thanks for the help guys.

I worked on it for a while today. I musted have climbed into the cab 100 times after making an adjustment only to get off 30 seconds later and do some more adjusting. I still do not have it right. The clutch will release just fine with the T/A engaged but in direct drive as I release the clutch it starts moving then at almost the end of the clutch travel it will grab again and speed up. I can adjust the dump valve so that it works correctly in direct but then the T/A doesn't work. I have the T/A set with the snap ring all the way down on the valve body when in direct and the trans brake set to allowing shifting after 3 seconds when moving from neutral.

Is this something I can correct by adjusting the dump valve or do you have any more suggestions as to what my problem is. I feel like I am just missing something in the adjustment process.

Thanks for the all the help

#8 Farmall Doctor

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Posted 09 June 2007 - 08:14 PM

Hi, Ted. make sure that the linkage is operating smoothly on the dump valve. I have seen where all adjustments are in tune, but the hinge point on the dump valve yoke was binding (or full of dried lube or other "crap") causing it to move slowly. Move it by hand and see that it returns freely. Is your dash "lube" tellite working?
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#9 Ted(MD)

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Posted 09 June 2007 - 09:22 PM

Darryn

I will check the valve action. The valve does appear to be leaking. The light works but does not go out until after the tractor is already moving.

Ted

#10 Maynard

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Posted 10 June 2007 - 03:49 AM

Darryn

I will check the valve action. The valve does appear to be leaking. The light works but does not go out until after the tractor is already moving.

Ted


There's your problem, the light must go out before the tractor starts to move.

The 3/8" measurement they give for the dump valve is not as important as having the lube light go off before clutch engagement.

Jim N.

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"Yet people are considered to be "educated" after they have spent so many years in ivy-covered buildings, absorbing the preconceptions that prevail there."
Thomas Sowell


Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you've decided to see beyond the imperfections.

 

"When people get used to preferential treatment, equal treatment seems like discrimination"

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