TD15B, will not go forward
Posted 16 April 2012 - 07:53 AM
Hello everybody, Have numerous IH and Case products all the way from H and M's, small tractors 560, 884, 1466, and up to Axial flow combines. Used to run a TD14 for a dozer tractor, but have engine problems. Found a TD15B (serial # 20533) that is in good shape, bought. Loaded it onto a drop deck and it went forward and reverse fine, turned fine. Got it home, unloaded it, moved it off to the side of the drive way on a slight slope, shut it down to get the truck hooked back up. Started dozer up, and would not go forward, goes in reverse just fine 1 and 2nd work fine in reverse. Not sure what is wrong. Checked hydraulic oil on the right rear of the seat (looking forward) , looks like it is below add. I am unsure where to put the hydraulic oil, I notice a tank just to the right of the fuel tank, or do I just put a funnel into the dipstick tube? I hope that adding oil takes care of the forward problem. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Posted 16 April 2012 - 09:47 AM
The tank to the right of the fuel tank is for the blade only and has nothing to do with the transmission, conv or rear end.
Fill the trans / conv / steering compartment at the long dip stick tube with 10W motor oil and check at idle speed.
Posted 17 April 2012 - 08:57 AM
Guess I can't answer why 10W for sure. Could be back then was availability and price. I'm sure there were not as many oil
options then either. The TD7 and TD8 with similar components called for 'Hi Trans' oil so go figure.
Universal Tractor Fluid would probably be ok too. Maybe your oil supplier can shed some light on what's right.
Seems like it took 30-40 gals for the trans and rear end so if 10W engine oil was cheaper that could be the reason.
If you don't have books for it yet, 'Binderbooks.com' has great reprints. They are in Sherwood, Or which is in the Portland, Or area.
Per your serial number looks like a 1966 model.
Good luck and have fun.
Where in Washington are you?
Posted 01 June 2012 - 10:12 AM
Posted 01 June 2012 - 04:18 PM
Posted 01 June 2012 - 07:37 PM
The old mechanical linkage was somewhat hard to get adjusted especially if worn joints. With batteries out and using jumper cables you could move the lever on the transmission by itself and make sure it is going into the detents properly while checking pressures.
Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:18 AM
Posted 02 June 2012 - 05:51 PM
The main pressure gauge should flicker (drop slightly and jump right back up) between shifts. This is the time it takes the oil to fill the clutch pistons.
If the gauge does not do this may mean the oil is not getting to the clutches
Drive Line-- Should not spin with trans. in any gear, even at full throttle provided the hi / lo lever on the right is in hi or lo, steer levers are clear forward and tracks are not allowed to move. How does yours react? It should spin freely in neutral.
With engine shut down do you have a inch or so of free travel on your steering levers? You should have some.
Well lets see what turns up with these tests then go from there